completelocks Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi guys. Only been in the shoe repair shop for 7 months now (long time locksmith) and need a bit of advice. I have been using bostik 6092 as an all rounder, and never had any problems or comebacks. Recently started stocking 'aneto rib half soles' from CB. I have done two pair and they both came back the same day (today). It looks as if the adhesive has just not 'took' Question is, which adhesive is best for these onto rubber soles? Cheers P.S. CB product ref: VEN450002 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I don't know the soles, but 6092 is not an all rounder glue it is no good on PVC (shoe or material) or TP its fine for rubber or leather, basically if a surface is reflective in some way PVC/TP then it will be no good & you'll need something else. might be worth a conversation with a rep as to what glue is for what, as its something tricky to explain over a forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derek Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 sounds like you have used rubber glue onto plastic, you need to stock pa5050 glue and also a primer like rehagol, i mainly use the yellow label bottle of this, and then its a case of recognising what glue has to be used, if you can post some pictures of the shoes and you might get more help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
completelocks Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I have a tin of 5050, never used it. Will try it on one. I am gonna scrub the shine of the new sole too. Don't know if that helps, but it just seems like giving it a 'key' surface to grab? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfman Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 graeme you are not far from me if you can get time you can call in and i will take you through all the glues and show you which is best for what you are trying to stick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
completelocks Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Sounds good. I shut shop Thursdays (half day in the town) Inbox me your address and I'll pop down. Coffee, black, 1 sugar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfman Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 these are a standerd rubber soleand as such it should not be a problem to attach them ,however on saying that it all depends on the materail you are attaching to ,if its tr or our then its not as straight as just applying the glue . the other thing is i have never been a great fan of the bostik adhesives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcremanS Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I always find that if 6092 alone or 5050 doesn't do the job, Gripsotite S10 primer and Bostick 6092 works a treat for me 9 times out of 10.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Muppet Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 If I have a stick on sole peeling off a leather shoe at the edges, which pulls off easily, and upon inspecting the 2 surfaces I find the glue to be still present on both, what have I done wrong? I was suspecting the soles, although it happens on more than one type. Then I thought maybe the glue as it seems its not bonding with itself. The only other possibility I could think of was it could be me, maybe I'm not leaving the glue to dry fully or I heat for too long Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 if your heating glue when bonding to leather it tells me your using the wrong glue???????????????????????? When ever I bond to leather I use a contact adhesive, leave till tacky, press & finish???????????????????? Never used a glue that needs heating on leather. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
completelocks Posted December 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 I always put the stick on under the heat lamp for a min just to help the glue go off a bit, never comes off leather. Elfman.... I will get round to paying you a visit one thursday too, as I said. But just been so busy, new kitchen fitting and other stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Muppet Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 It probably is that then, just bad habit. Everything goes under the lamp for a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 what glue you using on them? what sos are you fitting, are that Rubber or PVC? Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Muppet Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 I would assume they are rubber, definately not PVC. I use bostic 6092. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcremanS Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 It probably is that then, just bad habit. Everything goes under the lamp for a bit To be honest, I do the same but rarely have any problems with soles sticking Do you stick them under the lamp straight after glueing or do you let it go tacky first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Muppet Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Let them go tacky. Trouble is I'm not sure what method we have used on the shoes when they come back because its usually a week or more later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 the method should always be the same with 6092, if its dry enough to need heating you've gone past the best point when the evaporation of its properties is at its strongest. brush on, leave only a few minutes to go tacky (it is after all a contact adhesive, not a heat activated one) place work together.. there should be NO other method with 6092! Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kobblers Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 I don't agree Lee. I've been using 6092 for 20 years now and I've used it as a contact adhesive and as an adhesive that you activate with heat with no discernible difference in the outcome between the 2 methods. Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 well you is wrong in your methods then Rick. its a contact adhesive & your waisting electricity & getting your timings wrong, simples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 I always put the stick on under the heat lamp for a min just to help the glue go off a bit, never comes off leather. Elfman.... I will get round to paying you a visit one thursday too, as I said. But just been so busy, new kitchen fitting and other stuff Same here. I use 6092 on leather and just heat the soles. I suspect that Lee's method works too as long as they are still tacky. with 50/50 you need to heat both the shoe & the material. I also leave 50/50 to cool for a couple of minutes before trying to trim the excess before finishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 I don't agree Lee. I've been using 6092 for 20 years now and I've used it as a contact adhesive and as an adhesive that you activate with heat with no discernible difference in the outcome between the 2 methods. Rick. I concur Rick. I use both methods, makes no difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenB Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 I haven't used 5050 or 6092 since the early '90s. Old fashioned adhesives. get with the times fellas. Renia multi colle all the way, normally gently heated for best effect, occasionally with the addition of green label primer. Sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kobblers Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 well you is wrong in your methods then Rick. its a contact adhesive & your waisting electricity & getting your timings wrong, simples. Twaddle. I've been using my methods for over 20 years where adhesive is concerned and they work fine for me. with 50/50 you need to heat both the shoe & the material. I also leave 50/50 to cool for a couple of minutes before trying to trim the excess before finishing. You don't have to heat the shoe at all. We heat the new material up and when it's just hot enough to handle we then apply the glue to the shoe, let it go off ever so slightly and then bond. 99% of the time we have absolutely no trouble. I'm not a fan of putting shoes under the heat lamp as it can cause the original sole to lift or warp. Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Twaddle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Scenario Lee...........You get a pair of leather soles in.....Strip,scour, and apply adhesive.....Oh no! someone comes in for an engraving job urgent...You miss the contact time.......It's dried.........Whatever will you do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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