kobblers

My mistake. I was typing that quick I put 'from' instead of 'onto'. Rectified. I know TX-3D is Eurospec - it was the other numbers that threw me. I'm beginning to think that JMA (who I never really use) have different suffix codes for different head shapes, just like Silca. I forgot to mention that the customer's key had the same head shape and profile as a WAG 1, hence me using it as I didn't have an alternative, except for MILA. Lesson learned. Thanks for the input, all. Rick.

Had a key in that had JMA TX-3GD on it - I cut it onto a WAG1 but the punter said it wasn't entering the lock................ I'm fairly sure I've cut these from a WAG1. previously, and had no issues. Punter wrong or wrong blank? Rick.

It's the same as Lowe and Fletcher LF4 92 series as far as I can remember. I'm at home at the moment so can't check.# Cut one of each and double yer money Rick.

Thanks for the reply. I was a crap shoe repairer for years because I was taught in the days of the 'Heel Bar' where most jobs were rushed and the training was crap, at best, and that's being kind to it. It's only because I loved what I did and still do that I started to learn properly from those who could teach me, that I became better at it - I'm not the best in the trade and don't pretend to be as I'm not an arrogant pillock like some in our trade are. I did build-ups your way for nigh on 15 years as that's the way I was taught but I did a pair, one day, that needed it doing like I do it now, and I thought it looked so much better and have never looked back. If it makes you feel any better, I didn't know how to rewelt properly, for 22 years, as I'd never been taught and then one of the members on here, elfman, showed me how to do it after inviting me up to his shop. That man knows more than anyone on here has forgotten....... Every day's a learning day - if you disregard that or think you're above that advice then you really are a fool Don't ever be afraid to ask for help or advice on here and don't let the naysayers or people who scoff get in your way or deter you as they're usually just insecure, arrogant little bullies who you'll just be wasting your time with. That's what this forum is for. Rick.

And, as I've mentioned less than a year ago, I've had a stroke since then and my memory isn't what it used to be. Rick.

Unlike some on here, that's what sets you apart from those who think they're the canine's cojones - your advice is invaluable and has helped me out of so may sticky situations - add to that you don't belittle members with barely hidden, childish snipes. No wonder you were voted Member of The Year. Rick.

That's much more of a professional reply. Keith. Thanks. I'm not too proud or arrogant to admit when I've learned something new and that's what this forum is meant to be all about Rick.

MRT1RP will do a lot of the plant keys. Rick.

I din't know that about the thinners - you learn summat new, every day Rick.

Cheers, Tel. Is the zero not important then? (I ask because I'm new to Instacode) Rick.

I'm not entirely sure why that would be the case? I've been doing this job for 32 years and never had a heel fail or look bad because of the way I've had to build them up. In my own, personal opinion: for twenty quid - it's bad. When I used to be able to obtain the decent, soft PVC sheeting, I never built up like that - I used to scour the heel down to the lowest wear point and replace the whole layer. I know people who use micro or harder rubber sheeting to do this but they're totally different materials and don't look right. Thanks for your input. Rick.

Ta. Rick.

Can anyone verify if this Halfords Exodus carrier is Las or Ronis? Thanks.

By putting the build around the other half of the heel, as well, so it at least looks even and more aesthetic.

I would have been embarrassed to ask £20 for that repair. It's not just the adhesive - the build is also very visible. There's another ongoing thread about shoe repairs dying off. I'm not bloody surprised if people think the above is an acceptable standard!!!!! Rick.