Jump to content
Shoe Repairer Forum

Recommended Posts

I wonder if I can clarify a few things,

 

I have this key to cut and have the correct jaws etc for Futura.

 

I'm mainly interested in the track part of the key as I suspect that the code on the card is wrong.

 

Code on the Card: 

 

A = 11312

B = 2113

C = 1131

 

Here is the original key.  Can anyone confirm the code of at least the track part?  Also I am using Key Cards:  3826 for A & B Axis and 3573 for C Axis.  Is that correct?

 

2016-07-18 15.30.29.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if I can clarify a few things,

 

I have this key to cut and have the correct jaws etc for Futura.

 

I'm mainly interested in the track part of the key as I suspect that the code on the card is wrong.

 

Code on the Card: 

 

A = 11312

B = 2113

C = 1131

 

Here is the original key.  Can anyone confirm the code of at least the track part?  Also I am using Key Cards:  3826 for A & B Axis and 3573 for C Axis.  Is that correct?

 

attachicon.gif2016-07-18 15.30.29.jpg

 

You shouldn't be using to cards to cut one key.

Technically they are same but broken down for different cylinder type. Once you know how many angled pins there are There are only two choices. A 4 height key (Superior +) or a 3 height key (superior).

 

I use Superior + for Yale & Superior for Magnum. 

 

On your key pictured I would use card 3578.

When cutting from a card on Silca you must reverse the cuts to the key IE - the card says A=11312. When entering cuts in to the Silca Software A = 21311 (Bow To Tip). You must do this for all Cards Yale or Magnum  A+B+C.

 

The side bar is a bit more tricky. There is only 4 cuts and can look very different to the original going up and down. This is due to the way Silca cut the key. It can step up or down depends on what the difference between the cuts are, I'm not sure why. They can be hard work to read sometimes from a picture but your one is correct for the card as stated. If you reverse all cuts I   don't think you will have any trouble. Have not decoded the original rather then just copy the info from the cards?

 

If you look at the Silca software you will see where the side bar cuts are between the angled cuts. If go from that & ignore the rest you will be fine. 

 

I have got a reader key for the side bar I made somewhere for the young lad. If I remember where I put it I will take a picture. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks 

 

You shouldn't be using to cards to cut one key.

Technically they are same but broken down for different cylinder type. Once you know how many angled pins there are There are only two choices. A 4 height key (Superior +) or a 3 height key (superior).

 

I use Superior + for Yale & Superior for Magnum. 

 

On your key pictured I would use card 3578.

When cutting from a card on Silca you must reverse the cuts to the key IE - the card says A=11312. When entering cuts in to the Silca Software A = 21311 (Bow To Tip). You must do this for all Cards Yale or Magnum  A+B+C.

 

The side bar is a bit more tricky. There is only 4 cuts and can look very different to the original going up and down. This is due to the way Silca cut the key. It can step up or down depends on what the difference between the cuts are, I'm not sure why. They can be hard work to read sometimes from a picture but your one is correct for the card as stated. If you reverse all cuts I   don't think you will have any trouble. Have not decoded the original rather then just copy the info from the cards?

 

If you look at the Silca software you will see where the side bar cuts are between the angled cuts. If go from that & ignore the rest you will be fine. 
 

I have got a reader key for the side bar I made somewhere for the young lad. If I remember where I put it I will take a picture. 

but 3578 doesn't come up under Dimple & Track keys on the Futura :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try with the software then send it to the machine. If you haven't got it on software then contact silca because it's an old ish card now.

 

I found the key.

 

image.jpeg

 

As you can see in the picture the black lines are we're the wafer sits and the point you need to read.

Don't be tricked by complicated snakes or ups/down that are irrelevant. The point are always between the same angle cuts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

It's a while since I have done one of these Yale Superior keys using the Futura.  The last one I cut worked but only with a stuggle and not properly.

 

I just want to clarify a couple of things that don't seem clear in the Futura guide when cutting.  It says start use stop 1, but that seems to be stop one from the back?  All seems back to front to me?

 

...and all three codes are reverse entered into the machine from the card?

 

Here is the set up:

2017-03-31 14.01.55.jpg2017-03-31 14.05.58.jpg2017-03-31 14.11.52.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simon.

Did you re-calibrate those jaws after any update?

I cut 10 today on Version 3.0.3 using Silca MGN1RP and all were 100%

2 x Brisant Ultion D series on Silca BRS1R also no issue.

Re-calibrated after the last update and cut again and it worked this time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...