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Stitch picking?


Guest Drake Speedball

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Guest Drake Speedball

Hello, all-

 

I am new to the forum (and this trade) and I have a question that perhaps you experts can assist me with.

 

Much of my work consists of 1/2 soles (95% cowboy boots, 5% other.) I am really picking up speed on every other aspect of the repair, but the most frustrating and time-consuming part of it is removing the old stitches from the welt prior to applying the new sole and stitching.

 

We have an old line finisher with a "stitch picker" attachment, but the stitch picker is effective in very few cases. The thing is as apt to tear up the welt as it is to actually affect the stitches. Most of the time, I end up having to take an awl or needle and manually pick out the remaining stitches.

 

Here's a representation of what we have:

 

http://www.shoesystemsplus.com/parts-stitchpicker.html

 

(It's the one marked "ASP100C Stitch Picker on Atco Fitting")

 

Is this common? As I mentioned, our machine is pretty old, and therefore the stitch picker attachment is old as well. There is some obvious wear on the attachment, but I don't know if that is merely the finish wearing off or if the "teeth" are blunted.

 

How do you guys remove the stitches? Is there some other obvious solution I am missing?

 

I appreciate any help!

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it all depends on how you remove the sole , i find the easist is to scour the sole to break the stitch then pour kumzoff on the sole ,aloow it to soak in then peel off the sole ,then remove the cut stitch and then the thread on the welt wil pull out in one go

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There is a specific tool for this job and looks like an old rivet marker.

It is a wooden handle with what looks like a metal saw blade with the teeth set to match the stitch lenght. These can still be obtained in the UK. It remove around 6 to 8 stitches at a time, you could make your own with an old kitchen knife and a file to make the teeth the right distance apart. (Welcome by the way).

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Guest Drake Speedball

Wow!

 

Thanks for your quick replies!

 

I do use the ol' needle awl and long nose pliers bit. If I get lucky, I can pull out several inches at a time. Otherwise, I just pluck the welt loops and pull them out a couple at a time.

 

Now that I realize that this is a common procedure, and that I am just not totally unaware of some cool time saving trick, I can be more patient about it.

 

Thanks again, all :)

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Guest Klazykobbler

I have to say i dont often do this as but read with interest about the tool hugh was talking about .

 

Anyone got one of these or at least a picture?

 

welcome to the forum Drake ( the originol Drake was a bit a big in the westcountry a while back)

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it all depends on how you remove the sole , i find the easist is to scour the sole to break the stitch then pour kumzoff on the sole ,aloow it to soak in then peel off the sole ,then remove the cut stitch and then the thread on the welt wil pull out in one go

THATS THE WAY TO DO IT,,,especially when they have been repaired before,,, takes 2 minutes,,, worst ones, i find, are the shoes with middles in,, best to pull this back too, easier to get them out.

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it all depends on how you remove the sole , i find the easist is to scour the sole to break the stitch then pour kumzoff on the sole ,aloow it to soak in then peel off the sole ,then remove the cut stitch and then the thread on the welt wil pull out in one go

THATS THE WAY TO DO IT,,,especially when they have been repaired before,,, takes 2 minutes,,, worst ones, i find, are the shoes with middles in,, best to pull this back too, easier to get them out.

 

Absolutley concur. Go beyond the lock easy peasy. Bit of crepe helps to drag the stitches out too from the welt side, a piece of crepe is also handy for removing the covering off engraving plates

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Hugh-

 

Is this the tool you are referring to?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sawtooth-Tacklifter ... 414aa16f44

 

Looks pretty danged handy...

 

The saw toothed back is pretty handy only for removing nails and as the name suggests, lasting tacks... Generally my boys just break the stitching by sanding over it then just pull it out in the other side with a trusty flat-bladed screwdriver...takes very little time to do.

 

Oh...and welcome to the forum by the way!

 

Cheers

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Yes that is the tool, designed for stitch removal but you can adapt it for whater purpose you find useful Pyrite.

 

Personally I find that scouring to remove the surface stitches on a leather sole errodes the band rather quickly at some considerable expence. what happened to the slitting around with the knife or are the current "cobblers" not up to this. (Perhaps todays construction methods do not allow this but sharpening a small knife is cheaper than replacing Bands!!.(perhaps I'm wrong).

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Welcome

I am a fanatic about removing the stitches myself and will get them out by what ever means necessary.Every method stated above has to be used in some cases as it depends on the shoe itself.I do use the atco type stitch picker and it works great most of the time.The problem you might be having is your going in to deep with it .I just use the very edge of it so you wont scratch the uppers.One problem might be your not getting the lock off the underside of the welt so check that first.The other thing is if the welt is plastic you can use the heat gun or heat lamp to soften the welt first and those stitches with come out like butter.

take care,

Ray Torcaso

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Guest Drake Speedball

Ray -

 

I think you hit the nail on the head, so to speak - I don't think that I am getting the lock stitches out completely. I'll give it a whirl tomorrow and see what happens.

 

Maybe I'll chuck up one of those carbide cutters and see if i can't avoid cutting into the welt from the bottom :D

 

At least I find re-welting to be relaxing. Now if I can just stop grinding into ladies' heel coverings when doing a re-cap...

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Hey Drake

One other thing to help you if net getting the lock off the underside is I use a sharp knife and slice down and into (sideways like)into the threads to remove the knot of the stitching and that will do the trick.1 thing though is be careful not to cut deep

so you don't cut the welt stitch.Hugh the thing about this forum that makes it so great is know matter how good we think we are at its the total of everyones imput

that makes us all just a little better.

Ray Torcaso

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Hey Drake

One other thing to help you if net getting the lock off the underside is I use a sharp knife and slice down and into (sideways like)into the threads to remove the knot of the stitching and that will do the trick.1 thing though is be careful not to cut deep

so you don't cut the welt stitch.Hugh the thing about this forum that makes it so great is know matter how good we think we are at its the total of everyones imput

that makes us all just a little better.

Ray Torcaso

 

 

Here here =D> =D> =D> =D>

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Ray, good post but are you saying that I dont cut the Welt Stitches.

I always cut the stitch unless I could not get the knife between the welt & sole.

Failing that I would cut/scive the sole at the groove to remove the thread lock.

Only in desperation would I scour the leather.

Many repairers nowadays aint got a knife sharp enough to scive.

And yes I agree in total, the sum is better than any single part..many minds make job easier as my old uncle Cackimoto used to say.

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Hugh i don't think Ray said you don't cut the welt stitch. You have misread his post. You can always get your knife between the welt and the sole. An application of Kumzoff will help in this if it is secured a bit to tight. And why in desperation would you not scour the leather. Are you talking about the sole or the welt? As for knives I use a stanley knife a great deal now, not that I can't sharpen a knife but it's easier on my hands especially my thumb joints when trimming heel fronts

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why do i scour becouse its easier and quicker ,do i have a sharp knife well put it this way i was cutting some sheet leather and hit a soft spot went right thru the leather and my thumb to the bone thus leading to an over night stay in the hospital going to the theatre at 10.30and coming out 4 hours later with six weeks in plaster and 6 months physio getting it to work again with a constant reminder of the incident with 3 visable stitchs inside my thumb. secondly i have seen a repair manager from a weel known national chain cut thru the stitch then the welt and then the toecap of a nice pair of brogueswith no clue as towhat to do next

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