Infill again.

[hibsjo(SCO)]

We use 3mm brass and charge £25

carry on!

[Guest Iain Cheall]

I'm not telling you, you will shout

[Auto Key Wizard]

I'm not telling you, you will shout

 

You're TOO CHEAP Iain

[CotswoldEngraver]

looks like i can raise it a little then, not passed on the quote as yet so still room for adjustment!

[Guest Iain Cheall]

I'm not telling you, you will shout

 

You're TOO CHEAP Iain

 

it depends on the number of characters tel i used the mastergrave price scheme as a base point and therefore do the first 50 characters free but if you look at CB's price I am more than them for 100 characters.

Basically I charge by the square inch plus characters plus holes. then extra for logo's and different coloured paints.

 

but I knew I would catch a little fishy when I cast out my first post

[ironplanet uk900]

I went nuts and did these to 1mm but in future i think .3mm would be better as the paint sags to much. I double painted these to get a good level fill.

 

plus after you have finished cleaning them up, Peek gives them a nice shine.

 

 

Did this one for my new display boards... came out nice me thinks

 

 

Cost £5 in paint

 

We can make Corian signs any size or shape now, if anybody needs a bespoke one making.

[Dean]

That looks ace uk900

 

Would you do us a favour and send the logo to us?

[ironplanet uk900]

That looks ace uk900

 

Would you do us a favour and send the logo to us?

 

Sent

[Simes]

What is the best method for infill on Wood?

 

I want to engrave one of these and then infill in Black. Also what type of paint do I use?

[cobkey]

Paint Filling

Paint filling offers the broadest number of options in terms of materials, colors, and applications. For metals and rigid plastics , it is best to use a fast-drying, oil based enamel and mineral spirits for the cleaning operation. On soft plastics and other materials that may be affected by caustic solvents, use latex or acrylic paints and water or alcohol for clean-up. In addition to the paint, all you’ll need are an inexpensive brush, , and credit card. The engraving should be smooth, free of burrs, and have sufficient depth to hold the paint. As a rule of thumb, with characters up to 1/4" high, engrave to a depth of .010" - .012". On larger characters, it is advisable to go .015" - .020" deep depending on the line width and filling technique used.

Brush the paint on liberally so that it is thick enough to hide the cutter marks after drying. Immediately after filling, hold one edge of the card so that its straight edge rests against the plate and scrape off the excess paint, leaving just a thin film.

Wait about 5-10 minutes until the paint has started to set-up before starting the clean-up process. To clean the surface of the plate, wrap two or three thicknesses of a lint-free cloth tightly around a wood or plastic block and dampen it with thinner—don’t use too much or the thinner will remove the paint in the engraving.

Wipe the surface of the plate lightly in one direction until the paint residue is removed (pressing too hard might wipe the paint out of the characters). It is best to allow the plate to dry, preferably overnight, and then to do the final clean-up when the paint in the characters has completely set. Use soap and water or a cleaner that will remove any oily residue left by the paint and thinner. Some people utilize small plastic squeeze bottles with needle-like nozzles ,

Some of the best sources for small amounts of paint in a rainbow of colors are touch-up paint from the automotive store and paint sold at hobby and art supply stores.

[Forest Cobbler]

I've always had a problem with engraving larger designs etc. because, if I don't use a nose cone, then the lower right hand area of a larger sign gets missed and I have to reset the depth and go over that area again. But if I do use a nose cone, then it's fine for doing areas that are no wider than the nose cone itself, but it drops into the middle of a larger area making that part of the engraving too deep.

 

Now I realise that the problem lays with the flatbed not being completely level, and I know that some of you have made special adaptations for your one machines to overcome this. But am I missing something, is there another way round this?

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Many thanks, Valerie

[StevenB]

Valerie, if the discrepancy in flatness is only on one axis, you could use the depth profile function to get round it.

[Forest Cobbler]

Unfortunately I fear it is on both, because I have had the same issue doing a long narrow plate as I have when doing a more square one.

 

I did try once to use the depth profile to see if that would make a difference, but the program didn't like what I was doing and said 'no'.

 

I accept that I may have been doing it wrong and need more tuition

V

[Gray]

Valerie, Can you give an example of the things you are having problems with. Possibly upload the vistool file into downloads so we can have a looksee. Or email me the file and I'll forward it to Steve so he can have a look too. PM sent

[Simes]

Paint Filling

Paint filling offers the broadest number of options in terms of materials, colors, and applications. For metals and rigid plastics , it is best to use a fast-drying, oil based enamel and mineral spirits for the cleaning operation. On soft plastics and other materials that may be affected by caustic solvents, use latex or acrylic paints and water or alcohol for clean-up. In addition to the paint, all you’ll need are an inexpensive brush, , and credit card. The engraving should be smooth, free of burrs, and have sufficient depth to hold the paint. As a rule of thumb, with characters up to 1/4" high, engrave to a depth of .010" - .012". On larger characters, it is advisable to go .015" - .020" deep depending on the line width and filling technique used.

Brush the paint on liberally so that it is thick enough to hide the cutter marks after drying. Immediately after filling, hold one edge of the card so that its straight edge rests against the plate and scrape off the excess paint, leaving just a thin film.

Wait about 5-10 minutes until the paint has started to set-up before starting the clean-up process. To clean the surface of the plate, wrap two or three thicknesses of a lint-free cloth tightly around a wood or plastic block and dampen it with thinner—don’t use too much or the thinner will remove the paint in the engraving.

Wipe the surface of the plate lightly in one direction until the paint residue is removed (pressing too hard might wipe the paint out of the characters). It is best to allow the plate to dry, preferably overnight, and then to do the final clean-up when the paint in the characters has completely set. Use soap and water or a cleaner that will remove any oily residue left by the paint and thinner. Some people utilize small plastic squeeze bottles with needle-like nozzles ,

Some of the best sources for small amounts of paint in a rainbow of colors are touch-up paint from the automotive store and paint sold at hobby and art supply stores.

 

Thanks for this. I'm concerned that on wood the paint or the thinners in the clean up process may damage or stain the surrounding wood or am I worrying unnecessarily?

[kev]

Cover the wood with vinyl (the stuff you cut letters from) first.

Engrave through the vinyl.

Fill with paint.

When dry peel off vinyl.

No paint in grain!

 

Kev

[cobkey]

Thanks for this. I'm concerned that on wood the paint or the thinners in the clean up process may damage or stain the surrounding wood or am I worrying unnecessarily?

 

 

I always use meths and it does'nt affect the wood or the finish, and kevs idea is a good one, may try this myself,

[Simes]

Yep, sounds like a plan. I'll just need to get myself some vinyl from somewhere I'll look into that today.

[cobkey]

simes, PM me your address and i'll semd you some off cuts.

[Simes]

Cheers Mate! PM Sent

[Simes]

I understand on these wood signs I should be using Cellulose paint as infill is that correct? If so can I just get this at a DIY store?