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Grooving of leather soles


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I'm never perfectly happy with my grooved channel and was looking for any advice on how other folk groove leather soles.

I currently use a tungsten groover on a fitting on my finisher but the end result never quite looks perfect. I've tried all sorts of different things such as a new blade, an old blade, a steel blade.

I've also experimented with quite a few different soles, Gruben, JR, Wares Gold and am currently using Wares Executive.

I'm not saying my groove is awful but it's never perfectly clean. It's perfectly adequate but i'm not sure adequate is exactly what i'm trying to achieve!

Just wondering how other folk groove soles and have any tips. I was considering a hand groover but have no idea whether that is the answer.

I'm at home now so not able to post any images but will add one in the morning.

Cheers.

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Cheers Lee. That's exactly the sort of feedback I was after. 

I was taught by my father and he was never keen on achieving a perfect finish. I currently knock the groove\stitches down with my hammer. It's obvious now you say it, I need to iron the groove after stitching. I've been looking for a fudge wheel for a while on flea-bay,  that would definitely help too.

Cheers again. 

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17 minutes ago, Lee said:

I also wet the soles after stitching, then  hammer the grove as you already do, then use an iron tool & then I use a fudge wheel for detail.

 

On 2/1/2020 at 8:01 AM, petercoulson said:

Paul,  play with a piece of leather. If you pull against the groover you get rough edges but if you go with the direction of the groover it is a lot better so try both directions with the leather and see the difference. Also play with how quickly you do the groove.

Cheers Pete & Lee,

I already wet the soles and have some hand irons so i'm sure with some practice and trying different sepeds etc i'll achieve a better finish.

I may have come up with another theory too after reading your comment Pete. My father has until recenlty grooved nearly all our soles and he is right handed. In the past 6 months i've started grooving most and i'm left handed. I think I pull the shoe the other way around to my father (will check tomorrow), I wonder if the groover blade is sharper on one side than the other and the way i'm pulling the shoe is using the blunter side.

That may be a load of cobblers (sorry!) but I know we have to have different knives and scissors as they are sharp on different sides, we also spin the shoes different ways when finishing heels on the 100 grit band.

??

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