Growster Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 I have here a key for a wheel clamp. Looks like a short shoulder stopped Hooply key. How much of a bodge is it if I try to shorten a Hooply blank? And then suggest to take great care when inserting the key, because the bodge will not have the lead-in slopes to ease the key into the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Muppet Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Shorten the key then file the slopes in. Problem solved Amlocks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamparker Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 I use my finisher to do the slopes get a nice straight line a file will do the same job. Done a lot of these you can also use the Yale blank as it’s already shorter than the WJ1R. Amlocks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 It's not called bodging, It's fine tuning. Mike at Vauxhall and Amlocks 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Growster Posted October 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 I have done as you suggested and it worked. Sharp as a knife these keys were. I have now been sent another Hooply key, H1, only a little shorter than the M1, the WJ1R. Any suggestions for a blank that does not need to be shortened? The Hooply WJ1R looks as many other blanks should be similar enough, really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamparker Posted October 24, 2018 Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 Silca GAT1R should do the trick. Growster 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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