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56 plate ford transit lost keys


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if side and back door have garrisons on it , then tradelocks and the chinese do a useful garrison pick and decoder , works well though takes a gentle tension and some feel 

 

http://tradelocks.co.uk/genuine-lishi-garrison-7-pin-slam-lock-2-in-1-pick-decoder.html

 

its fairly simple to use if used to picking pins and anti picks , but i stress its light tension on these and lube the lock well 

 

are you saying your stuck on the decode of the tibbe ? if so what tibbe pick are you using and what part of decode are you stuck on ?

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if using the lishi pick , you should always get an accurate read , once held in open position , pull each turner back till it stops and take reading this way , easy to spot the readings , on some worn locks the 2s and 3s can be hard to tell difference on , if the case once opened reset and bring just one turner back to start position , apply tension and count the tiny clicks on that lifter until open , if clicks once its a 3 , twice its a 2 and 3 times its a 1 , do this with each lifter in turn and you get 100% read, 4s are already solid and dont need picking at all .

 

also check key you cut for tell tale marks of oversize cuts , ie if cut to a 1 and it marks it will be a 2 .

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What ever you do don't put a make up key in ignition, been there done that. Chuck the make up key

away and get a tibbe pick from Safe Ventures, then all your writing done "maybe could be codes" back to front with the 

cheap tibbe picks will be over.

I used to cut plain tibbe blanks to check I had the proper code, more often or not I didn't, all that frustration,

life too short, spend some money, get the proper tool for the job.

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How many undercharge on these old worn often troublesome locks that can take more than a few hours and a few keys, I bet we have all been there , and thats with the vehicle , I wonder how many new keys get stuck in ignition on those worn wicked dust caps , that are cut & cloned  by  shops ???

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If you ever get a key stuck in the ignition then i recommend these, i have removed dozens of keys cut by others when they have cut the key to deep.

 

http://www.aldridgesecurity.co.uk/p-4700-souber-tools-s1-curved-shims.aspx

 

Trim with a pair of scissors and slide down the left hand side while moving the key back and forth then ease the key out.

 

Works a treat.

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If you ever get a key stuck in the ignition then i recommend these, i have removed dozens of keys cut by others when they have cut the key to deep.

 

http://www.aldridgesecurity.co.uk/p-4700-souber-tools-s1-curved-shims.aspx

 

Trim with a pair of scissors and slide down the left hand side while moving the key back and forth then ease the key out.

 

Works a treat

....or if the key works but is stuck, just pop out the ignition barrel and with barrel out they will normal let the key go so you can retract it, adjust and test before replacing the ignition.  I find after you have done a few, you can strip these down, decode and rebuild them in about 15 minutes.  Personally, never go on with the Safe Ventures Pick.

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How many undercharge on these old worn often troublesome locks that can take more than a few hours and a few keys, I bet we have all been there , and thats with the vehicle , I wonder how many new keys get stuck in ignition on those worn wicked dust caps , that are cut & cloned  by  shops ???

I used to have loads of problems with these getting stuck until I got my Futura.  Now although they are occasionally sticky they never get stuck, leading me to believe that it might be the adjustment of the machines that contributes to the problem.

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Make sure there is always a 1mm gap between the cuts and brush the key well to remove any burrs.

 

Removing the ignition switch from the back also releases the pressure on the barrel and will allow a key to be removed with gentle jiggling.

 

I have never yet had to completely remove an ignition lock to get a key out.

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