Peter / Sweden Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 Hera are some pictures of how i do the stitching with a closed lip. Maybe it will help someone who is interested. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Run a very sharp knife all the way around the edge in an angle of about 35-45 degrees, and about 6-8 mm deep (depends on the angle). Be very sure to do it in a straight line or it will look awful. Make sure the leather is wet while doing this hole procedure. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Open it up with this tool (don´t now how to say in English). We call it a midwife. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- After opening the lip properly, stitch it and glue it ( No superglue, OK? ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- When the glue is almost dry, close it with your hammer. Let dry a little bit more........ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Then close it completely by knocking it with a hammer. After this it is important that you let it dry before you go further. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now the shoe is dry and ready for any kind of decoration. Regards Peter / Sweden This post has been promoted to an article Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kobblers Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 wow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corlas Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 Good work Peter! Health! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest k@lsb Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 just to ley you no,i do this job ,sometimes ,when time is permitting,buy dont have a midwifetool as you call it,i use a knife at a 30 degree angle,then ease the seem back,with, a flat object,metal ruler etc but as i dont have a midwife tool,i scrape the bottom of the cut out,using a small screwdriver, as u can guess does take time, thats why i dont often do it, as dont have the time,but when done it looks great....................anyone no ware you can get a midwife tool from????????????????plz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkb Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 a very nice stitch job !! insperational. i was however refering to the chanel knife attatched to the out stitcher. it slices a 90 degree stitch path at a depth that is hammerd shut. i assumed it was standerd practice, but i noticed in both the rewelted boot then the dress shoe done by diff. cobblers the same procedure. that being said ive seen shoes stitched in a groove as in blaked, i just thought a work boot would benifit more with a closed seam. i can apreciate an artistic call. bkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter / Sweden Posted July 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 K@lsb, I now the tool is in the Götz Catalogue. Regards Peter / Sweden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Beautiful Peter, I used to do it like that years ago, trouble is the customer thinks you haven't stitched them 1st class workmanship............I knew there was more to you than a tube of superglue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter / Sweden Posted July 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 uk900 wrote: trouble is the customer thinks you haven't stitched them Thats true! .I knew there was more to you than a tube of superglue ironplanet uk900 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Brilliant! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithm Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Lovely work Peter, although my preference is to see the stitching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter / Sweden Posted July 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 I Only do this to customers who ask for it. I have one customer, who only have John Lobb shoes, and he always ask me to do this. Extra charge of course , but he will never go anywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x minit uk Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Cracking job Peter, and a great tutorial for those who are not sure how to channel a leather sole. When I used to do this job I used a sole raiser to open the flange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corlas Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 trouble is the customer thinks you haven't stitched them Yes, the " most clever" customers ever looks this work with distrust, mistrust, and it isn't pleasant for the worker. A good solution is to have a "sole open" in yours shop window. This way of work is the best for preserve the stitching. Another to say is a great work Peter. Health! P.D: Sorry, I'm looking for the Götz page and don't find it, if anyone of you knows it, please tell me. Not cheap, but beautiful tools in this cathalogue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Peter, first of all many thanks for the time and effort put into the posting. On the second picture there are what appear to be semi circular marks on the lip all around the shoe, what has caused this as I have never seen these marks before? As bkb points out, there is a knife that can be attatched to the outsole stitcher that will do this job for you although if you are not profficient at stitching you will make a mess of the sole as you keep running off the Toe I tried it and found that I could do a neater job with a knife, it does take some fair degree of skill and practice to get the desired results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter / Sweden Posted July 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Marks are from pressing the sole edge and welt together: The wheel under the sole makes them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Ah, now I see, problem solved thanks Peter. Our marks from those type machines are straight lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windycity Posted October 31, 2007 Report Share Posted October 31, 2007 hi peter just flicking through and came upon this, when i was learning this is how we used to have to our blaking i the days of old blaking a lock/loop type blake. i never had that channel opening tool had to use the back of my knife i also remember various things being thrown at me when slippig with my channel knife, but it really does look great. i do remember some clients wondering if we had really stitched them londoners are such a trusting lot... its great you have done this as i'm sure there are some who are not aware of this type of channel like there will be people who have never written a cheque out.. regards paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toofatbyfar Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 just came across this posting, we do all are blake jobs like this , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x minit uk Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 just came across this posting, we do all are blake jobs like this , May I ask for what reason ?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 I seem to remember anther problem with customers over this method. As soon as the lip had worn off the Stitches were exposed and the customers complained that when the stitching thread got worn the soles would drop off All Competion shoes were done this way many years ago. WH&B Rough Rounder & Channelling Machine, why do it by hand when you can ruin hundreds of soles with this machine . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petercoulson Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 WH&B Rough Rounder & Channelling Machine, why do it by hand when you can ruin hundreds of soles with this machine . ragged edges come to mind..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Soles that have moved and chopped off Welts spring to my mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray T. Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 Hey Peter Very classy looking first rate job to me.Not many if any would truly go to those lengths to please a customer .Theres no reason to buy a machine to do that job when your only doing a few a year and besides thats the satisfaction of being able to know you have the skills and knowledge to preform a task like that.Peter I look forward to meeting you when you come to visit a mutual friend this year. Ray Torcaso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 Hey PeterVery classy looking first rate job to me.Not many if any would truly go to those lengths to please a customer .Theres no reason to buy a machine to do that job when your only doing a few a year and besides thats the satisfaction of being able to know you have the skills and knowledge to preform a task like that.Peter I look forward to meeting you when you come to visit a mutual friend this year. Ray Torcaso Only a few a Year!!!!! I used to do 20 a day but you cant get it as good as the machine. The knife on the machine can be set to go much deeper and have no feather edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray T. Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 Hugh It doesn't matter how many you did in a day because it doesn't change the fact that Peter did a great looking job which is what his tutorial was about in the first place. Ray Torcaso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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