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Biting for Westfalia tow bar


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3 hours ago, kobblers said:

I stopped cutting the 2W series to code beacuse of too many being wrong.

Rick.

Not always wrong. Lots of tow bars are left on through winter and get lots of road salt and dirt in them seizing up or restricting movement of the wafers internally. Flood locks with the Devils Juice (WD40) to free then flush with a proper lubricant. Use a wafer probe or pick to see if all wafers are springing back into position.

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I've cut them to code where the buyer has had an original and the new copies wouldn't work. I had this quite a few times.

I always send this with those types of lock:

 

THESE TYPES OF LOCKS ARE NOTORIOUS FOR SEIZING WHEN NOT
 PROPERLY MAINTAINED, SO PLEASE DON'T AUTOMATICALLY
ASSUME THAT THE KEY IS FAULTY IF IT DOESN'T WORK.

IF THE LOCK HAS BEEN UNUSED FOR A WHILE,  PLEASE ENSURE
THAT IT HAS BEEN WELL OILED & THEN LEFT TO SIT
FOR A  SHORT WHILE BEFORE USING YOUR NEW KEY AS THE
INTERNAL WAFERS MAY HAVE BECOME JAMMED IN PLACE.

IF THE KEY IS STILL DIFFICULT TO USE, APPLY MORE OIL TO
 THE CUTS ON THE KEY AND THEN INSERT THE KEY INTO THE LOCK
& GENTLY WIGGLE THE KEY WHILST TRYING TO TURN IT.
GENTLY TAPPING THE BODY OF THE LOCK
WITH A HAMMER MAY ALSO HELP.
ALSO CHECK THAT THERE'S NOTHING STUCK IN THE LOCK.

DO NOT USE FORCE

TOWBAR ADVICE:


MOST TOWBAR LOCKS WILL ONLY WORK WHILST  
ATTACHED TO THE VEHICLE.

 

Rick.

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