actionman Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Hi i've had a few instances lately where i've gone to do a new key for a Vx Corsa or Combo using Z series blade but have had problems with it. In each instance the new blade has worked perfectly fine in the door lock but for the life in my I can't get it to turn in the ignition. The new blades are all from 3D Group & are cut to copy. When they haven't worked i've tried fettling them to try get them to work but still no joy. So i've ordered a blade cut to code from 3D Group which has worked each time I'm stumped as i don't have any other problems like this with other vehicle makes laser blades thanks Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Exactly the same here Craig. I have no clue why either. What copy machine are you using? Mine is the SKS Hurricane. To calibrate the machine I lower the guide down on the existing key and then the cutter down onto the new blade each time I use it, as this was what I was told to do. I'm now thinking I should calibrate using two new blanks. Incidently, I have a similar issue with HON66 which is always too thick to enter the lock (had this problem before when cut to code too). Finally, rarely can I make an HU43 work with my copy machine! It's very frustrating because all other keys work 100% every time. Never been able to get an answer as to why. Anyone able to shed light on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 i'm using a An-San Panther. I calibrate the same way as you. If you calibrate using 2 blanks then it won't cut it correctly because I find that the blanks are thicker, so when you then place the original key in the machine & lower it down to cut the guide will go further down than it was calibrated for so the cutter will cut deeper I've not had problems with HU43 but I do remember having to fettle & file a few HO66 blades. I've got another Z series to do this afternoon & already i'm dreading it because i can see what's coming. I'm going to have to tell another customer i'm going to have to order another blade cut to code! frustrating & embarrassing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamparker Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 If you do any more than 4/5 a week then consider buying a code machine, there have been quite a few miracle a5 machines second hand for sale recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Davis Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 That is very strange, with this type of machine the only calibration you can do is the depth of the cut as the jaws are both fixed and can not come out of line? i wouldnt calibrate the depth using a blank key, i would lower the tracer onto the jaw, then do the same for the cutter (as the jaw thickness will never change). Once you have done this the only other way you can go wrong is placement of key in the jaw, i assume you are putting the key in the jaw until it stops at the bottom, most jaws have groves cut in them so you can use a tip stop blade instead of the bottom of the jaw. If you running the machine off an invertor it may have trouble cutting the deepest cuts in one pass, id try several passes until no material is coming off. With the machine i use i need a different size cutter for HON66 that maybe your problem with that key but i can't think of any reason your having trouble with vauxhall z key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 yep, it's confusing the hell out of me why i'm only having problems with this type of blade. Had another Corsa C yesterday & had the same trouble again. Worked in the door lock but not in ignition. Yes it's running off an Inverter, i do most keys in 2 cut passes anyways. I use a 2.5mm cutter most of the time but every now & again changed to 2mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamparker Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 On my old Silca Club you could adjust the tracer as it was on a concentric (hope that how it's spelt) cam. It had a special spanner which released the holding nut and you could rotate it 360 degrees. it would allow it to move forward then to the right then back then left as you turned. Have a word with the machine suppliers and look to see if the manual allows adjustment of the tracer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamparker Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Get hold of some barrels from Ebay or Scrap yard to play around with, it helped me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Muppet Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 I get the same problem, although rarely with the z blade. I use jma pods and (original?) Horseshoes and a 2mm cutter on a keyline punto. I have also had the trouble with the Honda blank working the ignition but not the door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Davis Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 I know this is a silly question but if you have 2 sizes of cutter, then you have 2 sizes of tracer and you change them both together? Id be very suprised if there was any cutter side ways ajustment on this machine, i cant see how it would be of any use? easy to check sideways ajustment tough, pull carriage down and move accross until cutter and tracer hit side of jaws at same time (hopefully) Id try everything i mentioned in previous post, id even try running a lead out to the machine and working off 240v making several passes. If that still didnt work id ask who ever i bought it from to cut a Z key and tell me it works? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamparker Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 All the problems you guys are having is one of the reasons i bought a triax e code. My best investment ever. Yes they are expensive but what a piece of kit, i love mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 I see what you're saying, as i said i only have problems with the Z series & with how many i don't think it'd be worth my while buying a new machine. If I worked it out as an average i bet it wouldn't even be 1 a week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 yep, it's confusing the hell out of me why i'm only having problems with this type of blade. Had another Corsa C yesterday & had the same trouble again. Worked in the door lock but not in ignition. Yes it's running off an Inverter, i do most keys in 2 cut passes anyways. I use a 2.5mm cutter most of the time but every now & again changed to 2mm I'm working off 240v and so not the problem in my case. Even at 4/5 keys a week it would take many years to get your money back on the investment in a Cut to Code machine. Might try Marks suggestion. Got a Vauxhall Meriva coming in this morning so will feedback how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamparker Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 One thing i forgot to mention, i only use SILCA blanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 My mate has just dropped his Corsa D off for his brakes doing so going going to have a mess with some blades. I generally buy all my blanks from 3D Group Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 My mate has just dropped his Corsa D off for his brakes doing so going going to have a mess with some blades. I generally buy all my blanks from 3D Group I buy all mine from 3D too. Failed miserably this morning. Tried my usual method of calibration but this time turned over both original and new black to do the other side recalibrating again. Worked fine in the door and one way around in the ignition. Thought I would go and calibrate to the Jaws and run them through again. This time they wouldn't work at all. Started again with a new blank calibrating as Mark suggests from the beginning. Works in the doors but not the ignition at all! Given up and ordered key to code Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 i've just had exactly the same grief again, worked perfect in door lock but wouldn't budge in the ignition! Starting to become a real pain in the backside! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamparker Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Actionman and Simes, i have just dug out 2 old ignition locks and i will stick some wafers in a cut you a new key on the triax. If you pm me your addresses i will send them to you to practice on, you can easily strip them if you want to see where the wafers are jamming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Count Muppet Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 anyone would think he's member of the year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Actionman and Simes, i have just dug out 2 old ignition locks and i will stick some wafers in a cut you a newkey on the triax. If you pm me your addresses i will send them to you to practice on, you can easily strip them if you want to see where the wafers are jamming. cheers, much appreciated. I'm going back to 1 tomorrow tea time as i've had an idea. Going to flip the blades around 180 degrees in the jaws so that the blade tip is facing me instead of facing into the machine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Actionman and Simes, i have just dug out 2 old ignition locks and i will stick some wafers in a cut you a newkey on the triax. If you pm me your addresses i will send them to you to practice on, you can easily strip them if you want to see where the wafers are jamming. That's great! Thanks mate . I'll PM you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 right, bit of an update. I've been to have another go at the Corsa C as i had the idea of putting the blades in from the back of the jaws so the tip of the blades were facing me instead of facing the machine. What this has done is move the cut closer to the left hand side of the blade, left side if you have blade in your hand with tip facing away from you. So when i compared side by side the blade i cut the other day to the 1 i'#ve just cut you could see the difference in the positioning of the cut The result..................... IT WORKED straight away! \:D/ =D> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Great result! Thanks for the feedback. I've had a key delivered cut to code but I will try your method making a copy when the customer comes in. I'll use her original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 no worries, let me know how you get on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionman Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 went back to the Combo today that i'd had trouble with on Monday. I cut a blade using the precut 1 i'd ordered from 3D Group. Put them in the back of the jaws & my cut key worked straight away again! So definitely think i've cracked it =D> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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