YM15

[lee.b]

hello people im faily new to key cutting been doing it for about 18months its been ok ,but last week and last nite i had to go and cut a sprinter key and a vito key both had snapped in locks ,i removed keys put in cutter and cut a new key but the new cut key seemed to be deeper cuts resulting in not bloody working ,the machine i,m sure is calibrated right when i put two blank keys in the passing cut just about touches.when i cut the the key i dont turn the one around in the tracer im sure it doesnt make a difference but thought id mention , and also the difference when calibrating of the cut key and guide key is ...cut key 8.67 guide key 8.71 ..if anyone can understand what ive just wrote any feedback would be gratefull thanks lee

[k4mrc]

put in cutter and cut a new key but the new cut key seemed to be deeper cuts resulting in not bloody working ,the machine i,m sure is calibrated right

 

are you using the correct jaws to duplicate the key?

you will say 'yes' of course - but I find that cutting this key on the 'wrong' jaw the best!

try not the flat sided jaw but the car key jaw that clamps the slot!

hope this helps, and makes some sense!

[lee.b]

i did clamp then cut it on the flat side and not the side which clamps into the profile of key

[Auto Key Wizard]

Clamp on the key blades rebate & not the the key blades thickness, this will hold both key & blade at the correct height.

[Mark Davis]

does it work the door & not the igniton?

[lee.b]

it was clamped on the rebate and it did,nt open either door or ignition

[Mark Davis]

i've done the job you discribe numerous times and just use the flat clamp as there is no slot in this key to use the car key clamp.

i've never had a problem, but if i did have the problem you discribe i would measure each cut on the broken key and cut to code. failing that it's very easy to take the door lock out and get the last 7 cuts then have a look in the igniton for the first 3.

[kingkey]

marks info is good apart from there are 8 cuts in door lock so only need to progress first 2 , also the silca blanks etc are slightly different to the originals , i hald them in the vice the same as mark , if the key still does not turn i cut the same key again while pushing against the carriage and the cutter , it will shave just a bit more off and that normally solves it , its just the thickness of the blank that is the issue HTH steve

[lee.b]

ok thanks for advice the problem is probobly staring straight at me i,l find why soon

[Jay]

i cut them the same way as tel described, cant recall ever having a problem tbh.

 

If the machine is set up correctly then you cant have been holding both keys the same in the jaws surely

[Auto Key Wizard]

Upload an image of the key & one of us clever guys will read the cuts & maybe offer to send you a key cut to code.

[grahamparker]

We have also had problems cutting this key on a silca rekord plus,but on the bravo they seem to be o.k.

 

As we see more of these keys snapped than any other vehicle key we now try to decode the key and use our unocode

as this way the key always works perectly.

 

I have even tried copying a key cut on the unocode straight onto a copy using the rekord and it still doesn't like it but

if i use the bravo no problems.

 

As tel said i think the main problem is with the way the jaws actually clamp the key so try cutting ever so slightly deeper

than normal as this is what i had to do in the past when only using our rekord plus.

[Mark Davis]

if the problem is it's not cut deep enough, then you will get impression marks, file the marks until either the lock turns or you have no key left