In a Sole Revival, the Recession ... Wall Street Journal

[neotrans]

In a Sole Revival, the Recession Gives Beleaguered Cobblers New Traction

By SARAH E. NEEDLEMAN

 

LAKELAND, Fla. -- "I haven't seen shoes like this in 25 years," marvels Jim McFarland. The narrow hall of his small shoe-repair shop is piled high with reheeled stilettos, resoled boots and polished oxfords.

Mr. McFarland, a third-generation cobbler, is riding a shoe-repair boom. Since mid-November, he has been juggling roughly 275 repair jobs a week -- about 50% more than usual. "I'm so busy right now it's unbelievable," he says.

 

JIM MCFARLAND

The recession is battering big swaths of the U.S. economy, but it's given a new lease on life to the tiny shoe-repair industry, which has been shrinking for decades. Nationwide, cobblers and their suppliers report markedly higher revenues than a year ago, as newly frugal Americans opt to repair their shoes rather than replace them.

"Our business is very, very strong in an industry that has been depressed and declining for many years," says Lee Efronson, owner of Miami Leather Co., a wholesaler of shoe-care products to cobblers since 1959.

In assorted nooks of the national economy, the recession has provided a welcome jolt. Résumé writers have seen an upsurge in business from customers looking for jobs. Auto mechanics say they are getting busier keeping old cars on the road. And employment lawyers are picking up clients swept up in the waves of layoffs.

 

It appears that the good news for cobblers means bad news for shoe retailers. Retail sales of adult footwear declined 3.2% in the 12 months that ended in November, from the year-earlier period, according to NPD Group Inc., a market-research firm.

Lawrence Sutton hadn't set foot in a shoe-repair shop in years. In November, the 36-year-old insurance-company owner walked into Mr. McFarland's storefront in a strip mall in this town east of Tampa to drop off his wife's black Prada pumps, which had a broken strap and worn heels. "It's better to pay $40 to fix them than $500 for a new pair," he explained. His job is secure, he said, but he's concerned about the economy and is watching his wallet.

 

There are just 7,000 shoe-repair shops left in the U.S., down from more than 120,000 during the Great Depression, according to the Shoe Service Institute of America, a trade group. Today's cobblers lament that young people are less inclined to learn the trade from their fathers or take it up on their own.

"We fix everything except broken relationships," says 52-year-old Alex Romanov, owner of Chagrin Shoe Leather & Luggage Repair in Woodmere, Ohio, where sales have increased about 25% from a year ago. "Nobody wants to do the job anymore."

That includes his 25-year-old son, Ilya. Uninterested in learning to repair shoes, the junior Mr. Romanov in 2006 started an online extension of his father's business. The business, AmericanHeelers.com, receives about 100 pairs of shoes a week by mail from customers around the country; they're serviced by his father's shop. The mail-in model works, says Ilya, because "people live in places that don't have a shoe cobbler anymore."

 

Ron Johnson says his Tampa cobbler shop has seen sales increase nearly 50% since June. Jamie Imes, 31, recently drove a half hour to get there. She says she doesn't know any shoe-repair shops closer to her home in San Antonio, Fla.

Ms. Imes, a mother of four, says she's taken her husband's shoes to cobblers before. But now, she says, "to be more economical," she's giving her own shoes a makeover, starting with a pair of battered tan Bjørndal sandals.

Mr. Johnson, a bald, burly man, learned shoe repair from his father. He taught it to his son, Larry, more than a decade ago, but his son became a truck driver. These days, Mr. Johnson works on about 400 pairs of shoes a week, up from about 275, and he's concerned about hanging on to his three employees. Previous employees, he says, have left after just six months, in part because of the low starting pay -- around $25,000 a year. "I pour my heart into them, and then they'll leave," he says.

 

Not every business is suffering in the downturn. As WSJ's Sarah E. Needleman explains, cobblers are doing just fine.

One reason the ranks of cobblers have thinned is that it can take up to four years to learn the trade. Another barrier to entry is pricey equipment. Finishing machines, for example, come with trimmers, sanding belts, and buffers, and can cost more than $20,000.

Jeff Lipson, owner of Cobblestone Shoe Repair in Creve Coeur, Mo., says his sales have nearly doubled from a year ago. He says the trade had suffered in recent years partly because people aren't aware how much today's cobblers can do. Gear such as heel trimmers, shoe stretchers and hydraulic presses makes it easier to restore footwear made of newer synthetic materials.

"They come in here with their tails between their legs," says Mr. Lipson. A distraught first-time customer, he says, recently dropped off a pair of black leather Manolo Blahniks that her dog had mauled. Mr. Lipson says he made them look like new. "She hugged me," he says.

 

Inexpensive shoes sold by discount stores have also been a bane to the craft, Mr. Lipson says. Shoppers get into the habit of tossing them after six months and buying new ones.

Mr. Johnson, 55, recalls watching his father holding nails between his lips, removing them one at a time, when resoling shoes using a French hammer. "I've got a machine that shoots three nails a second," he says. "I can do the work of three or four of my dads with modern-day equipment."

Until recently, speed wasn't much of a concern for many cobblers because business was disappearing. Mr. McFarland says he now sees new customers arriving regularly, including young folks who have never visited a cobbler. He's grateful, he says, to have a part-time shoe shiner and apprentice to help out.

 

In spite of his reversal of fortune, Mr. McFarland, who is 44, remains wary about the future. He says he hopes the recession will prompt first-timers and infrequent customers to become regulars, so that the profession will stay alive. "What's hurt us over past 25 years is many people didn't know these places existed," he says.

Last week, Jessica Maugeri, 24, paid her first visit to a cobbler -- Mr. Johnson. She needed a fastener for a $60 pair of chocolate-brown Steve Madden wedges. She says she never paid attention to his small shop during past trips to the mall. But she is tightening her purse strings, she says, so she decided to give shoe repair a try. "I'm glad there are places like this," she says.

 

Bron: wsj

[petercoulson]

great story, thnks for posting it =D>

[Lee]

Nice one! at least two forum members mentioned in that report! Jim McFarland & Jeff Lipson. I don't think the industry has ever seen such a rise in publicity like this before. All over the world we're getting mentioned!

 

Lee

[Michael]

Just a pity we're not all seeing it like this...

[keithm]

It will be interesting how the public react to the current economic downturn with regard to footwear. From what I'm told, there has been a marked increase in sales of 'quality' footwear, as some people see the value in buying quality footwear and having them repaired over a longer period of time. An opinion with which I agree.

 

Is this a time for some of you guy's to consider selling 'quality' mens footwear as a bolt on? I had a run if success with this when I was trading and with the additional sales it could make a difference

[Michael]

A good idea in principal but after speaking to a repairer in a nearby town who sells quality shoes he said sales have dropped considerably along with repairs of mens soles and heels.To sell shoes you surely must have to have huge stock levels of different sizes, colours, styles etc.

In towns like mine the only bags I'm seeing with people walking past are Shoezone. Cheap shoes( £10!!) are selling like nobody's business and people wont pay to have them repaired.

[keithm]

I here what you are saying Michael, but with respect, I feel that may be more relevant to your area in particular than in General

 

BTW, you do not necasarily need a large range or large stocks, it depends how you operate it. It will need some investment, but for some, it may be quite lucrative.

[jimmyMac]

Gentlemn

 

mr Lipson & I will be in England the first few days in April We would love to come visit some shops & maybe go out for a bit or a beer

 

If anybody interested let me know. We would love to make new friends. Then we are off the renia & then Sweden. Ive always wanted to come see England. we are very excited to come there for the first time.

 

Jim McFarland

[Peter / Sweden]

If anybody have the time, take this opportunity to meet these two guys!

I visited them last summer and had a great time over there. We had so much fun and i worked a hole day with Mr Lipson . ( He could sell ice on the North pole, and i bet even a new Chevy SUV these day`s! VERY educating!)

 

It is also very inspiring to listen to there point of view on shoe repairs. These guys know`s what they talk about!

 

I will show them my shop.

 

Jim, Randy. Beer is in the fridge See you in April! \:D/

[Lee]

where abouts in the UK are you all staying?

 

Lee

[Peter / Sweden]

London/ Baker Street, near Regent`s Park.

[Peter / Sweden]

Well... since nobody seems to be interested i will go there to welcome them to Europe.

I think we will have a great time in your country anyway.

[keithm]

[petercoulson]

when you replied baker street peter did you mean they are staying in that area? perhaps thats why no one replied, they never answered whereabouts but you have?

[jimmyMac]

Well Im glad Peter put the info down because I didnt have a clue where we were staying. ( London/ Baker Street, near Regent`s Park.) Ill be the one looking like a tourist I guess

 

If anybody is in london I would love to meet ya .

 

From Florida

Jim McFarland

[petercoulson]

 

you are staying in a good location to see london, ask again nearer the time and im sure well sort something out. dont think im on holiday when you are over but i know i am when peter is.

[the dutch cobbler]

Well Im glad Peter put the info down because I didnt have a clue where we were staying. ( London/ Baker Street, near Regent`s Park.) Ill be the one looking like a tourist I guess

 

If anybody is in london I would love to meet ya .

 

From Florida

Jim McFarland

 

Hi Jim, are you staying in the Blandford Hotel?

 

I'm there with my daughter the weekend from may 1st! (A month too late to see you!)

 

John

The Dutch Cobbler

[jimmyMac]

Ahhh man to bad .... Im sure we will walk around & stop in what ever shops we see. Hopefully we are welcomed here in the U.S. some are glad you come in & some dont give you the time of day. I guess it can be this way anywhere. I think Shoe repair is used in europe more than the U.S. because you can walk more & people seem to be educated at a younger age about shoe repair than here. maybe I could be wrong but last time when I was in germany it just seemed like people were more concerned & cared for there shoes more. We get so many imports here in the the states the younger people buy everything from china. Dont get me wrong we do see alot of good footwear but all we have left is Alden & Allen Edmonds and a few small shoe makers here in the U.S. 98% are imports here.

 

Jim Mcfarland