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Finishing Wheel


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I have sufficient 30mm emery cloth to last 3 to 4 years. Glad of another reel.

 

Tried SiServe some months ago. No Joy.

 

I weep when I think of all the ones that have been scrapped.

 

A molded finishing wheel is a total Godsend on cuban heeled cowboy boots, of which I am seeing increasing quantities.

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And you can get collars for different sized ones to fit onto 1" shafts.

 

No hugh, you are on about those novelty penis collars, the ones with the red bow ties no doubt :P

 

 

Are you saying that the collars are no longer available Peter, are you also saying that they cant be made?

A very simple job for anyone with an engineering lathe. Manufacturing/Remanufacturing engineers without a lathe and the abilty to make a few collars :)

 

Any Joinery manufacturers could make the wooden wheels, felt is available, engineering bods could set up a amchine to churn out collars by the thousand. Where's the problem? apart from the moulded abrasive paper, aint seen that around for a while.

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Any Joinery manufacturers could make the wooden wheels, felt is available, engineering bods could set up a amchine to churn out collars by the thousand. Where's the problem? apart from the moulded abrasive paper, aint seen that around for a while.

 

The problem is...whos gunna want to make a one off dinosaur wheel for a machine that is well past its sell by date. Of course someone can make it :roll: but who the F*** wants to, unless you want to fork out a serious amount of money :roll:

Get in the real world and buy a new machine. :-s I can't understand why anybody in there right mind would wanna keep a decrepid heap of junk going. :roll:

Bumperty bump bumperty bump.....................

 

carry on.

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Just hope cuban heels dont come back to haunt you!!!

 

As for cost of the wooden wheel ,any bright spark with access to a Band Saw could knock one out in a few minute. I certainly could and so could ascap29 and a few others here so where is this "serious amount of money"?

 

There are some Orthopeadic repairers and manufacturers that would not be without this type of wheel but they now use a solid tungsten one, these are expencive however.

 

As for commenting on the state of the machine owned by the member, have you seen it?

I can show a machine that uses a split wheels that is inperfect working order, does not go bumpety bump and is used by one of this countries best repairers. He uses 2 machines.. 1 for speed the other for quality, the older machine is the one he does the quality work upon, dont put down other folks machinery because its different to yours.

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As for cost of the wooden wheel ,any bright spark with access to a Band Saw could knock one out in a few minute. I certainly could and so could ascap29 and a few others here

8)

 

i have an attachment on two of my routers that enables me to cut perfect circles :D the problem would be finding what wood those wheels used to be made from and then sourcing it as hardwood prices have gone through the roof this decade :(

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Just hope cuban heels dont come back to haunt you!!!

 

Haunt me !!!!

 

Why !!! I can finish cuban heels perfectly, I don't need a split wheel.. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: I've been around long enough to have used these machines Hugh, you're not the only expireinced repairer on here.

And if they were so utterly fantastic then they wouldn't have been replaced by band driven wheels would they.

 

As for cost of the wooden wheel ,any bright spark with access to a Band Saw could knock one out in a few minute. I certainly could and so could ascap29 and a few others here so where is this "serious amount of money"?

 

If you have anything made bespoke, then you'll obviously pay alot more for it.

 

There are some Orthopeadic repairers and manufacturers that would not be without this type of wheel but they now use a solid tungsten one, these are expencive however.

 

So if they're using a "solid tungsten" one they're not using the type in question are they...WHY :-s

 

As for commenting on the state of the machine owned by the member, have you seen it?

 

No but they are dinosaurs anyway :D would fail a health and safety check, Shit dust extraction, exposed spinning shafts, bumpy wheels that are dangerous, brittle wiring, bakerlight switches which are ilegal, If you employed folk to work on it and were visited by H&S you'd end up scrapping it, cus they wouldn't let you use the thing.

 

Thats why its a state without me seeing it, even though it may have a beautiful paint job :D

 

 

 

I can show a machine that uses a split wheels that is inperfect working order, does not go bumpety bump and is used by one of this countries best repairers.

 

I'm not saying you can't do an excellent job on an obsolete old machine, :D

 

He uses 2 machines.. 1 for speed the other for quality,the older machine is the one he does the quality work upon

 

What a load of bull, So the best repairer in the country can't do a good job on a modern machine, and he can only work slow on his obsolete one.

 

hehehehe, you's funny :lol: :lol:

 

dont put down other folks machinery because its different to yours.

 

Too right its different to mine, I'd have packed it in years ago or died of lung cancer if I'd had to keep one of these smoke & dust bellowing, energy wasting, vibrating, health hazardus relecs .

 

:wink:

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if its any help the repairer of the year to my knowledge uses a power unit and last years would probably use a 700. no split wheels but in split wheels defence we do get requests for the modern version for bottom finishing and heel finishing, think it is more to do with mounting on the brush section and getting the slower speed. the problem with this request is the moulding and as before getting the grit for it. in ortho finishers they replace the split wheels with either sponge type wheels or rubber inflatable ones which i have now found can be shaped - see http://www.hardo.eu/english/01ortho/pro ... _hardo.pdf for a list. if any of these are wanted janner i can make enquiries as for how they can be fixed. the problem may be where it is mounted on your machine though if you cannot slide a band on before inflation

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I had a very old single shaft machine in my first shop, it did a job until I was able to replace it with a modern machine. The brushes were on the end of the shaft with NO cowling, When I applied yankee wax I had a black stripe down the centre of my body and head ceiling and wall :lol: :lol:

It had a cash bag held on by an elastic band to collect the dust, but my lungs were a more effective way of collecting it, can't believe somebody actually brought it off me...

 

 

Some bloke call Hugh I think it was...

 

Brought it for doing his quality work on.. :shock: :shock: :D :D

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As far as making one off's is concerned, they are expensive, especially if you have to disrupt a busy factory to make them! It's not always a matter of simplicity for a decent engineer, sometimes it's economics balanced against future gain :?

 

We offer a birki wheel for our 700/710 finishers, fitted to your brush shaft, that can be of great help as far as finishing wide heels is concerned and bottom finishing for leather soles. They can be retro-fitted and it's a doddle to change the papers which we stock up to 150 grit.

 

Have a look here, the wheel is next to the thread :wink:

 

http://www.standardgroup.co.uk/accessor ... chines.htm

 

Keith

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You can use a fine grit band. Two issues, both minor, the birki is 30mm wider, thats good, the band runs faster on the scouring section which may hinder your finishing.

 

Using a fine grit band, 120 grit for instance, can be of great help in finishing. However, once it wears it can burn due to the high revs :wink:

 

The Birki wheel has no split, therefore, it's less bumpy than split wheels and suffers no burning as it revs slower on the brush section. Dust can be an issue, but take your time and it works fine.

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but my lungs were a more effective way of collecting it,
God, when you blow your nose! looked like you'd been down the coal mine.......

 

Been there too.

 

Get in the real world and buy a new machine. :-s I can't understand why anybody in there right mind would wanna keep a decrepid heap of junk going. :roll:

Bumperty bump bumperty bump.....................

I bloody hate people like you! :smt008, you don't know the individual circumstances as to why this machine is in use. I for one have in the past (when I got going) brought all manner of knackered old machines simply because I would rather offer a service in all areas than none at all.

Gradually most of these have been replaced, but I still use a couple of machines that spares are nonexistent for simply because I like them. when they break I will ask on here if I can get the parts. If I can't I will THEN replace them :twisted:

 

Lee

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You can use a fine grit band. Two issues, both minor, the birki is 30mm wider, thats good, the band runs faster on the scouring section which may hinder your finishing.

 

Using a fine grit band, 120 grit for instance, can be of great help in finishing. However, once it wears it can burn due to the high revs :wink:

 

The Birki wheel has no split, therefore, it's less bumpy than split wheels and suffers no burning as it revs slower on the brush section. Dust can be an issue, but take your time and it works fine.

 

Good points, as you say they are minor ones but can make all the difference to a coniencious repairer.

I can't see why anyone would think that you need a split wheeled machine to turn out good work though.

 

but my lungs were a more effective way of collecting it' date=' [/quote'] God, when you blow your nose! looked like you'd been down the coal mine.......

 

Been there too.

 

Get in the real world and buy a new machine. :-s I can't understand why anybody in there right mind would wanna keep a decrepid heap of junk going. :roll:

Bumperty bump bumperty bump.....................

I bloody hate people like you! :smt008, you don't know the individual circumstances as to why this machine is in use.

 

I couldn't care less why its in use. I just think its a health and safety issue and should be taken out of circulation. As I said very poor dust extraction, dangerous bumpy wheels, exposed spinning shafts, old brittle wiring, backerlight switches, great big over engineered uneconomical motors etc. You certainly wouldn't want to employ someone to work on it.

 

I for one have in the past (when I got going) brought all manner of knackered old machines simply because I would rather offer a service in all areas than none at all.

Gradually most of these have been replaced, but I still use a couple of machines that spares are nonexistent for simply because I like them. when they break I will ask on here if I can get the parts. If I can't I will THEN replace them :twisted:

 

Lee

 

I agree, old stitchers, engravers, key cutting equipment etc, but these incredibly old finishers are a real health issue, were as the other stuff can still do a job with out the risk of death..lol

 

To be honest, good luck to anyone who has had to start out with one, but just make it your number one priority to invest in a more up to date healthier machine.

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