alxfer Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Customer keeps coming in on a regular basis to get duplicates for this key. I use an L285 but have to grind down the end. Any suggestions for an alternative blank to save grinding? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKS_User Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Looks a lot like an E*S brass blank, I know they're made but unfortunately we don't sell these currently. Some of our customer's have reported success using a CHU-1G (standard Chubb blank) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kobblers Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 the brass e*s blank won't work for that particular key as it's too thick. i use the gauge keys for 'em. rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Cjm Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Which part are you grinding and why are you finding it necessary to grind it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 I use the L285, and have no probs, what exactly are you grinding off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x minit uk Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 I think he is grinding the length of the key down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 I think he is grinding the length of the key down. The only way that makes any difference is if the key hole one side is blocked off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 I think he is grinding the length of the key down. The only way that makes any difference is if the key hole one side is blocked off. In a Lot of cases I grind the tip off to the correct lenght, after all we are trying to make an "exact" copy its all in the detail. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 I think he is grinding the length of the key down. The only way that makes any difference is if the key hole one side is blocked off. In a Lot of cases I grind the tip off to the correct lenght, after all we are trying to make an "exact" copy its all in the detail. Lee So do I. but just explaining that its not a must and shouldn't hamper the funtion of the key. in 99% of cases Sometimes, but rarely, the nickle plating can come out a little thicker on the end of the shaft. this was a fault with some secure fast blanks some years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponsaloti Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 looks like a walsall 416, as bought by ourselves from sks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alxfer Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Back again, Yes x minit is right, I am grinding the length from the end of the blade to the end tip of the shaft. When I cut the first one without alteration, the customer came back reporting that the key would only go in so far and then would stop. I then ground down the length and hey presto it worked. I can only guess that the other side of the lock is blocked off as uk900 says. There is a bit of a language barrier with the customer so trying to get across some visual confirmation by her is difficult. Thanks for the help though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Phill Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 They are used alot by contractors on Electrical & Storeroom cupboards in blocks of flats in our area, and they only cut a keyhole on the outside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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