Walking Sticks & FAQ

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Walking Sticks:

 

Most people own or use a walking stick at some stage. There is a huge choice of different walking sticks available be it for casual use or everyday support. This guide provides an overview of the different types of walking sticks and gives you guidance on how to measure the correct height of stick for you.

 

Correct Stick Length

It is very important that a walking cane is the right height for the user. A cane that is too low or too tall may do more harm than good.

A correctly measured stick enables the user to maintain an upright posture with the elbow slightly bent.

Body weight is taken through the stick as the user pushes down on it when walking.

Using a walking stick of the correct height is imperative.

 

The walking stick user should stand upright, in the type of shoes they usually wear, with their arms hanging naturally by their sides.

WALKING STICKS AND CANES ARE NOT INTENDED TO BE USED LIKE A CRUTCH FOR FULL WEIGHT SUPPORT, THEY ARE INTENDED ONLY FOR BALANCE.

 

Measuring the correct length for a walking stick

 

To find out what height a walking stick should be for the user: Feel along their thumb and the side of their wrist and, about an inch above the base of the thumb joint, you will find a sharp bit of bone

Have them stand with arms by their sides, wearing the kind of shoes they normally walk in, and stood in a natural position - Not stood up straight if that is not their normal position.

The distance between that sharp bone and the ground is the correct height for any walking cane or stick.

 

Handles Types

 

A variety of different shaped handles are available. Each type of handle has different characteristics and will be suitable depending upon individual characteristics. It is important to try the walking stick handle for size and comfort before making your purchase.

 

Standard T Handle

 

This handle shape is typical on folding walking sticks and can be suitable for a wide range of people. The trigger shaped grip enables the thumb to wrap around the front of the stick. The back of the handle is easy to grip for support.

 

Crook Handle

 

Often seen as the traditional handle of a walking stick, the crook handle has the benefit of being easily hung over the forearm when not in use. However, for some the handle can be difficult to grasp and is not recommended if you need to place a lot of weight on to the stick.

 

 

Derby Handle

 

The Derby is a good compromise between a standard and crook handle and can provide excellent support. The curved shape allows the stick to be hung over the arm when not in use. Derby handles are typically made from wood.

 

 

Ergonomic Handle

 

Developed by Dr Fischer of Austria, the Fischer handle (sometimes known as Ergonomic) is designed to reduce the pressure points on the hand by spreading the user weight across the palm. This shape of handle is ideal if you place a lot of weight on to your stick and you use it a lot. The design of the handle is essentially a mould of each palm and you therefore need to be either a right or left handed version depending on which side you use your stick. The larger size of the Fischer grip handle tends to make it more suitable for Gentlemen.

 

Contour Handle

 

This is essentially a smaller version of the Ergonomic handle and is intended for people with smaller hands, particularly ladies. The pressure distribution advantages are the same and the design is intended for those who place a lot of weight on the stick and use it very regularly. The Ergonomic and Contour type handles are made from moulded plastic.

 

Escort Handle

 

The Escort handle is the forbearer of the ergonomic handle and can reduce pressure on the palm. The shape is easy to grip and tapering at each can give you reassurance. The handle is slightly angled forward which many people find comfortable.

 

Swan Neck

 

A swan neck shaped stick is really more to do with the shape of the shaft than the handle. A swan neck has an angled shaft which projects the handle forward. This way when you place your weight on the handle grip, this being transmitted straight down the shaft to the rubber ferrule. This is compared to straight neck where the weight on the grip is actually towards the back of the shaft which can lead to the stick slipping forwards if the ferrule of the stick is not angled backwards during walking. The swan neck is of most use if you are very unstable on your feet and place a lot of weight on to your stick

 

Question:

 

How should I hold a stick?

 

Answer:

 

This isn't actually a "frequently-asked question" - but it should be! Quite apart from anything else, it's a very significant factor in determining how long the stick should be, which has to be the most frequently asked question of all.

 

Most people don't give enough thought to how they should hold a stick; give them a market stick and they will grasp it with their fist closed in a death-grip around the crown of the handle with the nose facing towards them. This is not a good idea - the grip is too rigid and lacks control; it's rather uncomfortable, and subjects the stick to unnecessarily high bending forces. Better by far to place the hand near the heel of the handle, where the weight is transmitted straight down the shank with virtually no bending force applied. It's a matter of personal preference whether the nose points towards or away from you. Myself, I prefer the latter.

 

My advice to anyone trying out any sort of stick is to approach it with an open mind. For anything other than a thumbstick or staff, start by placing the open palm of the hand on the top of the handle, with the hand as near directly over the shank as is comfortable. Now just let the fingers curl round the handle comfortably. Only two or three fingers will go round the crown; the thumb and forefinger will probably lie along the crown or (holding the stick the other way round) down the neck. This is fine - it gives a comfortable grip with much improved control. An added bonus is that this allows you to let the stick slide through your hand as you swing it forward; it feels good and it adds a nice rhythm as you stride down a country lane or footpath.

 

 

Question:

 

What length of stick do I need?

 

Answer:

 

This depends on the sort of stick and what you are going to use it for.

 

As a rough guide, a stick used as a mobility aid should come to about hip height (measured to the part of the handle where the palm of the hand rests). There should be just a slight bend in the elbow: any more will place too much strain on the elbow, while any less will place too much strain on the wrist. You should be able to put your weight on the stick without raising or lowering your shoulder.

 

For the hiker or country-person, a market or Cardigan stick should come up to about the level of your navel. This will make the stick long enough for leaning on, but short enough to swing it as you walk.

 

A thumbstick should come to about armpit level, measured to the notch in the handle, where your thumb rests.

 

However, we come in all sorts of shapes as well as sizes, so these can only be approximate indications.

 

Remember that any craftsman stickmaker will make his sticks according to the length of the material available - there's no point in cutting them shorter before sale and losing tall customers. This means you should never reject a stick out of hand for being "too long". To try out a longer stick all you need is a box to stand on or a convenient stairway. It amazes me the number of people who, having had all this explained to them will still, on feeling attracted to one of my sticks, pick it out of the rack, then say "No, it's too long", put it back again and move on.

 

The following contribution is from Antonio Fernandez, Founder-Archbishop of the Independent Buddhists of America and acting minister of the Progressive Universal Life Church. Antonio has Multiple Sclerosis and offers this advice to those suffering from similar disorders of the central nervous system:

 

"People afflicted with various nervous system disorders often require a walking aid. Most generally, the aid is meant to assist in gait, balance and coordination. Some use it to reconnoiter uncertain terrain before they step onto it. Such a staff is not meant as a support, as in orthopaedic support, or for particular injuries from the waist downward. Thus, taller staffs, ranging from 38 inches to over 50 inches, are ideal.

 

The first clear benefit of such a stick is in climbing and descending stairs. Secondly, such a stick is ideal for helping mount and dismount buses, cars, etc. When we have a difficulty with balance, coordination, and the like, where do our arms reach to? Certainly not to the waist! We tend to thrust our arms out to somewhere between rib-cage level and chest level. That should be one's chief staff-height guide.

 

Never forget materials and construction... a stick that is 1 inch in diameter may be pretty but may not serve in the field. Think more along the lines of at least 1 1/4 inches. Choose a good, sturdy wood, good grain and nice finish. If you must have a decoration at the top of your staff, be sure it is functional. Even a tall staff will occasionally require grasping from the top!

 

Measuring the correct height of stick for you

 

It is very important to have the walking stick at the correct height for you. If the height is incorrect then the support will not be adequate.

 

To assess the height of stick you should have, you should stand upright in your regular footwear with your hands by your sides and measure the distance between wrist bone and the floor – this is the height of stick that you require

 

Where you are purchasing a height adjustable stick, you will need to look for your height in the range of heights quoted for that stick. You should aim to get the range where your height is in the middle as much as possible. Don’t worry if this isn’t possible, as long as you have 1 or 2 adjuster slots either side this should be fine. Most adjustable height sticks are adjustable in 1” increments so you will need to round your measurements to the nearest 1” when using the stick.

 

For wooden walking sticks, you will need to cut the stick to the right length. The easiest way to do this is to turn the stick upside down and mark the point nearest to your wrist bone (ensuring you are standing upright with your shoes on) and saw the stick to that length – not forgetting that the ferrule adds 1/4” to the height of the stick.

 

Please note that this information is a guide only.

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

Nice one Tel, what about the hand carved tops, not mentioned.

[Auto Key Wizard]

Nice one Tel, what about the hand carved tops, not mentioned.

Just for Harry, humm I mean Hugh hand carved walking sticks

[kobblers]

that's excellent tel, i'm gonna nick all that (if it isn't under copyright?) and use it to create some information leaflets for my customers. when i've done i'll stick it in the downloads section for anyone else who may want to print their own.

 

 

rick.

[Lee]

(if it isn't under copyright?)

quite possibly it is

 

http://www.clearwellmobility.co.uk/prod ... ?PageID=62

 

Tel did you get permission before copying the text & using these images??????????

 

Lee

[Auto Key Wizard]

(if it isn't under copyright?)

quite possibly it is

 

Tel did you get permission before copying the text & using these images??????????

Copyright on the images Lee, you must be mistaken, look again \:D/

The text was from varying sources