screwfix screws

[kobblers]

i bought a trade case of goldscrews from screwfix direct a year ago and now they're almost all gone i thought i'd give you my judgement on them

working with, they're fantastic, they cut their own thread and save you having to make countersink holes. not too clever in the end of a piece of wood, they still cause splitting even in a really tight grain unless you make a pilot hole first.

 

used for indoor projects they've been fantastic but one of the benches i've made and my back gate haven't done too well, the screws have actually snapped halfway down causing some joints to come loose where i didn't want to use adhesive because of movement in the wood due to humidity etc. i've come to the conclusion that the wood moving has created a lot of stress on the screws hence the snapping, and therefore the screws are not suitable in an environment where wood is gonna be subjected to prolonged humidity changes or damp.

 

i bought some spax MDF screws recently as MDf is notorious for splitting or showing bulges where screws are. so far so good, they even hold well in the end of a piece of board, something most screws won't do as there are no wood fibres to speak of to wrap around the screw thread.

 

rick.

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

I use Black ones from screwfix I think they are used for drywall boards, they are very thin and do not need pre dilling, very fast taper on the thread and very sharp thread cutting though anything very fast, only half the turns needed to drive the screw home. I only use one size though and dont know if they do different sizes.

 

Are the gold ones just called gold as I have been using this colour for a few years and they are similiar to the dyrwall ones but thicker, if they are the same as you have usedI have not had any problems with them but I have pre-drilled on all holes with this type.

[kobblers]

are the black screws you refer to the chipboard ones hugh with a really sharply angled thread?

i remember seeing them but bloody typical, i can't find my catalogue to have a look.

i think i'll try them when i next place an order:)

 

i think the ones i had were called goldscrews and i vaguely remember that they promised to cut their own way without causing splits, (which i tired out of interest) although i do think pilot holes should be made anyway, especially near the end.

 

have you ever tried the drill bits with the countersink attached hugh?

they're fab and i wouldn't do without them now.

they're great if you want to screw deep and then fill with a dowel or plug afterwards to hide the screw.

 

rick.

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

They are very sharp angled threads but they are specifically for drywall I think. Very very fast to go in I use almost nothing else.

I have a set of those dits with the countsink included by Makita and yes they are great, save a lot of time swapping over.

[kobblers]

i'll have a look hugh, thanks.

['Onest Andy]

I haven't tried any of the products from Scre fix. But with regard to the black drywall scres. I buy these from B & Q and they do offer a few different sizes. Of all things I find they are brilliant for refixing heel blocks both ladies and gents.

 

I do drill a pilot hole in all cases but they always wind in and create their own countersink without problems.

 

[ironplanet uk900]

I also buy em from B&Q Andy, Better that buttress nails any day

[Guest shoegirl]

Just a question...When a customer (shoe repair) comes in with a shoe that another shop repaired, yet it has fallen back apart....then you and/or customer notice the other shop used a drywall screw...do you ever joke about it?

 

I also use drywall screws to attach the heel on ladies shoes and so do most the people I have worked with over the years. But I know that I have and have heard other customers and cobblers joke about the "idiots" who used drywall screws in a shoe.

 

I try not to say anything about the screws anymore though because then I have to renail the darn thing to show how much "better" I am!

[Lee]

I only use BRASS, or STAINLESS screws for heel blocks as these don't rust.

 

I rarely joke about others work, I simply explain how I'm going to repair them and tell them the cost.

 

Lee

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

No matter what fixing device you use there will always be the customer with a heel block that will come off or break due to several reasons.

 

Height of heel.

Pitch of heel.

Badly worn and unbalanced (pitch).

Acidic perspiration causing rust.

Sheer size of the wearer (some big women in Stilettos out there).

Escalators.

Kerb Stones.

Instability through alcohol.

Sexual exploits in back alleys.

And the biggest culprit of all, Driving. Tremendous pressures put on high heels, just look for the tell tale signs of scuffing at the heel base. If you have the opportunity to observe just watch how the heel takes the pressure with each foot movement, no wonder they come off of shear the fixing devices.

[petercoulson]

you missed using as a hammer and smacking old man with them

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

Sorry Peter but that only applies to Glasweigian ladies after 12 cans of Tennants.

[petercoulson]

explain that to my wife..........

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

Why was she one of countless groups that I encountered at the weekend

[bkb]

the gold ones are deck screws, wont rust. blacks are temperd and will snap, or rust.

we use a heel wheel for attaching with threaded nails.

or ill use a screw

or ill use SUPER GLUE

bkb