Simes Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 I've been reluctant to post this because of feeling that I'm a bit of a crap repairer to even be asking but figure I'm not going to get better without asking! When repairing thru-soles I assume it's good practice to remove the old thread from the welt, but also the nails holding on the heel block. What is the best technique for removing these? Is there a tool I should use. I really hope these don't sound like stupid questions, but if we want inexperienced repairers to improve, I guess we shouldn't be afraid to ask! Finally, any good tips on getting a really nice finish to the bottoms of the leather sole? I've just been using Velostain followed by neutral polish brush!! Many thanks Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithm Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Never feel ashamed of asking what you may consider 'stupid questions'. We've all had to learn so we've all been there, you are not born with knowledge, you gain it over time or spend a year with Planet UK900 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcremanS Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 I've been reluctant to post this because of feeling that I'm a bit of a crap repairer to even be asking but figure I'm not going to get better without asking! When repairing thru-soles I assume it's good practice to remove the old thread from the welt, but also the nails holding on the heel block. What is the best technique for removing these? Is there a tool I should use. I really hope these don't sound like stupid questions, but if we want inexperienced repairers to improve, I guess we shouldn't be afraid to ask! Finally, any good tips on getting a really nice finish to the bottoms of the leather sole? I've just been using Velostain followed by neutral polish brush!! Many thanks Simon 1) Scour the sole to break the thread but do not take the sole off yet and 9 times out of 10 you can hook under the welt thread and pull most of the thread out in one go. It doesn't always work, but its a handy little trick when it works. If not you'll just have to continue taking the sole off and pick out the thread as normal 2) As for the heel nails, take the last out of its fitting. Lift up the insole and place the shoe upside down....it may take a little bit of shuffling around to find the best position, but tap out the nails with a hammer.....then just pull them out with pincers. 3) I finish my soles in the same way most of the time, but if you put some neutral polish on the sole (don't rub it right in - you want a layer on top of the sole) before you put it on, then repair as normal - by the time you've inked and waxed the edges, you should be able to rub away any marks on the sole with some crepe (if you do this, DON'T stain the sole).....it looks alot cleaner when done and gives a very nice shine too. I will post pics if it would make it easier to understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alxfer Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 If you find you are just bending the pins trying to knock them out, try using the heat tongs on them one at a time and twist and push them through using your pincers. When they come through up into the shoe pull them out. Liked the tip about the neutral wax though, I'll try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I've been reluctant to post this because of feeling that I'm a bit of a crap repairer to even be asking but figure I'm not going to get better without asking! When repairing thru-soles I assume it's good practice to remove the old thread from the welt, but also the nails holding on the heel block. What is the best technique for removing these? Is there a tool I should use. I really hope these don't sound like stupid questions, but if we want inexperienced repairers to improve, I guess we shouldn't be afraid to ask! Finally, any good tips on getting a really nice finish to the bottoms of the leather sole? I've just been using Velostain followed by neutral polish brush!! Many thanks Simon 1) Scour the sole to break the thread but do not take the sole off yet and 9 times out of 10 you can hook under the welt thread and pull most of the thread out in one go. It doesn't always work, but its a handy little trick when it works. If not you'll just have to continue taking the sole off and pick out the thread as normal 2) As for the heel nails, take the last out of its fitting. Lift up the insole and place the shoe upside down....it may take a little bit of shuffling around to find the best position, but tap out the nails with a hammer.....then just pull them out with pincers. 3) I finish my soles in the same way most of the time, but if you put some neutral polish on the sole (don't rub it right in - you want a layer on top of the sole) before you put it on, then repair as normal - by the time you've inked and waxed the edges, you should be able to rub away any marks on the sole with some crepe (if you do this, DON'T stain the sole).....it looks alot cleaner when done and gives a very nice shine too. I will post pics if it would make it easier to understand. Thanks for this. On the pair of Loakes I'm doing now number one didn't work, but there is something therapeutic about sitting down and unpicking stich by stitch if you have the time. Number 2 worked a treat. Number 3 - Do you mean Neutral tin polish or off the neutral brush? I get another repairer to stitch mine and a common problem is he doesn't keep his stitcher clean so hopefully it will improve the problem of stitcher marks on the sole too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcremanS Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I did say it doesn't always work I just realised I didn't phrase number 2 very well...but i gather you knew what I meant. As for the wax, I just use a tin of Kiwi neutral polish....not tried with the brush. Only I've found if you leave it overnight before finishing, it is tougher to get the marks off...but experiment with it and let me know how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Biggest problem is that he guy that stitches my shoes has a dirty machine which leaves and nasty mark all around the outside of the stitching, but I daren't say anything in case he refuses to do any more! Thought maybe the answer is to paint the outside edge in black like you sometimes see done. Not sure what I would use though. Maybe putting on the wax before they get stitched will mean I can clean them up when I get them back. Not many options for stitching where I am and can't justify my own machine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithm Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Why don't you try grooving the soles then mask them up Your friendly cobbler can then stitch them and you can remove the tape once you've finished inking and polishing the shoes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 When repairing thru-soles I assume it's good practice to remove the old thread from the welt, but also the nails holding on the heel block. What is the best technique for removing these? I remove old threads with a awl & a pair of long nose pliers that I've flattened the end on. Nails from heel blocks if really stubborn can be removed with electric pliers. maybe the answer is to paint the outside edge in black like you sometimes see done. Not sure what I would use though. Here's what I'd do. I paint my sole edges with coat-a-sole edging ink. I'd bring this over the edge to the stitching grove (not over the stitches). this would take the eye away from marks here. next I'd fudge wheel some detail on the sole (standard practice for me) again this will detract the eye from finger or oil marks. Finally I'd polish the stitches & sole with BLACK shoe polish. this pair have been done with black. this will grey the stitches (assuming he's using light threads) so any dirty ones won't be so prominant & it will grey down sole marks. It might also pay you to look at various soles, some have a finish on them which would make cleaning them easier, others will absorb polish better for distraction. Why don't you try grooving the soles then mask them up be careful of this on some soles. I masked a pair of JR's once, took the surface finish off in blotches. ruined the soles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithm Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 You mean 'ruined the finish, it would take a lot more than masking tape to ruin them But I take your point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Really nice work there Lee I'll give it a go with this next pair when they come back from stitching. What is the fudge wheel? Is it a hand tool? When you say BLACK polish are you just using something like Kiwi wax on the blackened edge and stitches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 You mean 'ruined the finish, it would take a lot more than masking tape to ruin them But I take your point. no I mean it ruined the soles. If a customer is buying JR's they want the logo, the one & only time I masked them the tape took the finish off in blotches, I removed the soles placed them in the bin & started again. I'd consider that "ruined" the soles & the finish What is the fudge wheel? Is it a hand tool? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COBBLER-SHOEM ... 256e07f94c http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COBBLER-SHOEM ... 2ebc2c8f4c http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COBBLER-SHOEM ... 2ebc2c7403 makes a nice pattern on the sole............. OLD SCHOOL When you say BLACK polish are you just using something like Kiwi wax on the blackened edge and stitches? Yep did the ones in the picture with parade gloss, but normal Kiwi black would do just the same. Not an ideal finish, but it will grey things down a little if the soles are coming back marked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Thanks Lee I might bid on one of those tools. I'm using Tek-finish for the edges. Is that the same sort of stuff as Coat-a-Sole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 no idea, I don't use it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simes Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Don't blame you, it's crap lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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