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thanks lee I believe on some of the newer locks you need to cut a notch in the back of the key and sks are upgrading their copies to allow for this, but these would not even begin to go in, it may well be a problem with the lock however a genuine blank should highlight this, I was interested to know if this is a one off or a problem that may arise again, I tend not to believe customers who say keys won't even go into the lock as they usually mean it goes in but won't turn but they try to exagerate the problem as if that will make any difference.

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I've had this problem with both JMA and Silca, depends on the bitting as to whether they will smoothly enter the keyway, problem can be solved by hand filing the tip of the key to the correct angle to run smoothly, but I too now only use Genuine as never occurs with these.

 

Mark

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  • 4 weeks later...

YA-46D's can be problematic, two things to check on a return would be to first run your cutter over the shoulder, in case you have an old batch with the higher shoulder on them. The second is to give your cutter a quick run along the back edge of the key to take the little notch out.

 

Both of these issues would interfere with the security escutcheon found on some of the locks.

 

 

As for not going in, the only cause for that would be if the nickle plating on the keys you have was outside of tolerance (something that's happened on different key blanks about 3 times in the 5 years I've been here). If you think this is the case, just drop your batch back with a copy of your invoice and we'll take a quick look and compare them against our current stock.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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