continuity of deep engraved brass plaques

[windycity]

hi chaps

 

i had to deep engrave some small brass plaques 50x25mm the other week, well got a follow on order for some more but I can not get them the same as the first batch some seem too deep and bolder. when i try to remedy this the font comes out to thin. I am using a umarq gem fx not the latest 8 version software.

you have to lower the nosecone to the brass then turn it a couple of clicks.

i am finding this really frustating and would like to know where i am going wrong.

 

thank you

 

farty

[StevenB]

Are you using the same size cutter as before - and is it sharp?

If you are getting any burrs at the edges of the engraving the cutter needs sharpening.

 

Can you post a photograph of the engraving you're not happy with so we can see what's going wrong?

It won't be anything to do with the machine itself, or the software.

[windycity]

hi steven

yes its the same size cutter and its sharp its a depth problem.

is there another way to alter the depth so that it is the same each time apart from lowing the nose-cone to the plate and then turn it a couple of clicks?

thanks

[StevenB]

Firstly, it's useful to have a scale on your nosecone, so you know where your starting point is.

I used permanent marker pen for mine for years until I finally did it properly:

Now you know exactly where your starting point is, you can set the cutter depth.

I set the nosecone scale to 0, use a scrap piece of brass & hold this tight against the end of the nosecone whilst dropping the cutter down (gently!) till it touches the brass. Lock it tight & you're all set to engrave.

Experience will then dictate how many clicks you need to get the right depth for each individual type of engraving material.

Finally make sure the brass cutter holder is screwed up tight like this:

And not coming loose like this:

Use a little PTFE tape on the thread if necessary...

If you follow these steps, you should have an accurate, repeatable set up, so whatever you've done with the machine between jobs you can always get back to the same starting point.

Hope this helps.

[windycity]

thank you steven

 

so simple but over looked i'll mark the cone i have, its shame the marked ones are not supplied with the machine though. i have had this machine for years and this depth ting has been a constant bugbear

[Lee]

comes as standard on Gravgraph machines

[Michael]

Simpler method:

Bring nose cone down onto brass,put cutter in and gently lower onto brass and tighten.Each click is 0.025mm, so if you want to engrave to 0.2mm (standard for brass with infill), turn nose cone 8 clicks anti-clockwise. (0.025 x 8 = 0.2)

 

Hope I'm not telling you what you already know

[StevenB]

Simpler method:

Bring nose cone down onto brass,put cutter in and gently lower onto brass and tighten.

 

I use the method above to prevent any possibility of making any unwanted marks on the brass plate I'm about to engrave. I know it's unlikely, but it's just my way of doing it!

 

Each click is 0.025mm, so if you want to engrave to 0.2mm (standard for brass with infill), turn nose cone 8 clicks anti-clockwise. (0.025 x 8 = 0.2)

 

0.3mm for me on brass = 12 clicks

[Michael]

Don't you cover your brass with a layer of vinyl,cuts out ghosting completely.

 

0.3mm for me too, gives a nicer look when polised.I was shown 8 clicks by Mark @ Mastergrave (now @ U-Marq) when I first got machine but experimenting found my personal preference.

[StevenB]

Don't you cover your brass with a layer of vinyl,cuts out ghosting completely.

Nope, I do them on one of THESE which means I don't have to use a nosecone so no chance of ghosting

And using THIS means no swarf either \:D/ \:D/

[Michael]

=D> =D> =D> TOUCHÉ =D> =D> =D>

[Gray]

I don't use a nosecone on brass either. I do my brass on one of these. http://www.rolanddg.com/product/3d/scul ... x-300.html

[gav]

comes as standard on Gravgraph machines

 

I was going to say that

[Gray]

But you didn't Gav

[Gray]

The reason I do my brass on my Roland is because it is a perfect flatbed so all the engraving depth without a nosecone is constant. Even up to A4 size. I have to admit I find it difficult on the Uni300 even on say a 5" x 3" to set it up to use without a nosecone. I wonder if anyone else with a Uni or even a Gravo machine of similar spec finds the same. In no way am I knocking the Uni300 I love it and the software. But if I had one complaint it would be that there is just a little too much variation when you fit the table. (ie Its damn hard to get it level)

[Gray]

I wonder if the depth profile might work????...mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..tommorrows task.

[windycity]

lee & gav the metal cone comes with the two top end machines from umarq if my memory serves me right, but not mine. so there gravo niks

[Dean]

I never use a nosecone on brass..I don't see any need, to be honest, as the beds on all our machines are nice and level!

[Gray]

Nor me...............

Happy forum tune

[markyboy101077]

Evening all

 

Excuse me if I seem a bit blunt, but why the hell would you use a nose cone to engrave brass, you will never get a proper job with this method.

 

If your engraving machine bed is not flat, and believe me that's probably 95 % of machines out there on the market today,

 

All you need to do is take a piece of plastic the size of your engraving bed, pop in a parallel cutter, stick your plastic to the bed. You may have to remove the original scale, so the cutter doesn't hit the scale.

 

On your engraving software create a retangle and infill using a toolpath the size of your parallel cutter, set your depth to about 0.2mm ( you may need to go deaper then this if your bed is very uneven), then bring your cutter on to the surface.

 

Your engraving machine will now mill you a perfectly flat bed, stick you brass plate to your new bed (with double sided tape) set your engraving depth to 0.24mm with a chip depth of 0.12mm

engrave, colour fill, JOB DONE..................

[Gray]

Genius!

[StevenB]

And using THIS means no swarf either \:D/ \:D/

 

If you don't have a swarf extractor, like this one:

take a look at how much difference it makes.

The picture below was taken immediately after the machine had finished engraving. Nothing was done except for turning off the relevant motors. The swarf you can see on the plaque is all that was left by the extractor i.e. none!

We all know how much mess you get with a brass plaque such as this...

If you want to keep your workplace clean & tidy, this is definitely an under-rated accessory.

[Craig Gardner]

i never use a nose cone either and use this http://www.rolanddg.com/product/3d/scul ... x-350.html machine for llarger milled out plates.although now all my large plastic plates are done on the lser except brass i still cut them to .29 with no nose cone perfect even depth everytime.i never do anything other than dimond drag on my universal.

 

craig