andy l Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 HELP! I have 3 zips to replace and my patcher is playing up. I don't have a manual or problem solving info. Just doesn't seem to want to stitch. Messed about with the tension and thought it was ok, then realised all the thread had gathered in a ball under the material. Have tried different needles etc. sometimes its doing 1 or 2 stitches then missing loads or just not catching a stitch at all. Any info would be great. CHEERS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petercoulson Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 this sometimes works but try dropping the needle a fraction in the clamp to make it longer. if this does work it may mean either wrong needles or a roller is worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithm Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 I believe there is a manual download available from the downloads section. If you have any problems with it let me know and I can e-mail you a manual. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 First question has to be what machine is it? Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithm Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Whats the odds on a 29K58 or 71? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 Its a knitting machine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy l Posted November 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 My Patcher model is a 29k60. don't see a manual for it. maybe I've just overlooked it. Main problem is it's missing stitches. It's missing more than its stitching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damen.rudi Posted November 15, 2009 Report Share Posted November 15, 2009 Have you tried turning the wheel manually and see if a stitch is formed. Do this without stitching on material. Just have a look and see what happens. When there is a lot of material on the underside, the mayor problem is tension. Get the threat out of the machine. Rewind a new spool and use the same threat as you put on the upperside. Put everything together and try it. Missing stitches can also mean that the moment your spool has to take the upper threat comes too early or too late. The needle goes down and takes the threat with him. Then the needle goes a little bit up and leaves a little piece of threat down where the turning spool has to take the threat. When this has happened the needle goes down again and the spool makes his turn. A stitch is formed. This moment is crucial. When the underarm, the 2 saws that are in, are worn out, you never will get a proper stitch. This can be controlled by feeling if the spool can be turned left and right with a standing still machine. Sorry for my English, I hope I have helped a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrite Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 As bad as it sounds, make sure your needle is in straight. Also check to make sure that the take-up arm has not ben loosened Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 What new patching machines are on the market, and how much are they. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithm Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 Claes and Adler are pretty much it, priced between £2800 and £3500, depending on whether you want to sit or stand and do your work. Both are very good, well made German machines with no part supply issues. The only real alternative to those two machines are cheap, Chinese made, 29k copies that are dreadful, poor quality with dubious parts availability and cost more than you think once you have imported it However, keep an eye on our Website for an announcment early in the New Year with regard to a NEW manual, short arm patcher Something we have under development Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 The old K60 would now have many worn parts, the sum of which make for problems on a big scale. To identify which part is causing the problem is a mamoth task, one step at a time covering dozens of possibilities. It's a hit & miss affair trying to identify the actual problem on this forum on an older machine. I would look at the problem through a different channel.....£2800 for a new one... £25 a week just over 2 years pays for it. £50 a week and you are into almost 100% profit after 12 months. Get a Claes.. very smooth and more versatile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithm Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 I concur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 i think i had this problem and got an engineer to have a look at it. he turned up had a look at it and then left saying it was fine not charging me in the process, it wasnt fine and still has the same problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toofatbyfar Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 disc, you might want to try changing the grade of thread that you are using,, we had this problem,, now use a slighy thicker thread in bobbin than main thread, works for us, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 disc, you might want to try changing the grade of thread that you are using,, we had this problem,, now use a slighy thicker thread in bobbin than main thread, works for us, KONKERING............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 ok cool, ill try it. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 The reason thicker thread works is possibly because it increases the tension. Try removing the small plate on the side of the shuttle. Clean out any accumulated dirt and refit. Ensure the needle is fitted the right way round ie the longest groove in the needle facing to the left of the machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 konkering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petercoulson Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 TINKERING Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 disc, you might want to try changing the grade of thread that you are using,, we had this problem,, now use a slighy thicker thread in bobbin than main thread, works for us, Thicker thread is possibly compensating for worn parts ......rear of tension spring & bobbin case.. look for the tell tale groove in either. (after cleaning out the crap of course, as previously mentioned). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gingerbas Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 I agree with Hugh, worn parts is what you've got. Under the spool holder there is cams that wear out, had this problem before myself. Get them replaced and you'll see the difference. Hope it helps. If this fails get the machine checked out it could be the timing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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