talking about shoes and leathers

[Guest Marcell]

I put a video on to the youtube:

 

http://youtube.com/watch?v=6LsE4nsEOJk

 

This has been recorded in my workshop, and - hopefully - soon will be continued..

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

Very interesting to see the hand proccess, look forward to seeing the rest.

[Corlas]

Hi Marcell, I saw this video in youtube and uped to the spanish forum before I know was yours!

 

Here

 

 

Jajaj, now I'll must edit and say "Thanks Marcell"

 

And please, up more...

 

 

Health!

 

[Guest Marcell]

Thank you!

 

I promise, I will continue this weekend the serie, with:

 

2nd part: lasting (maybe a bit different from other nations's methods)

3rd part: welting

 

I would be interested in the comments.. even if I don't speak a word in spanish. (actually I was there 2 months ago. Very nice place!)

[Guest Marcell]

My new video is on the youtube!

 

http://youtube.com/watch?v=tqQ9zWxBfg8

 

I hope you will like it.. Please comment and rate!

[Lee]

absolutely fascinating, can't wait to watch the next one.

 

Lee

[Corlas]

Thanks Marcell

 

I do little different, and I sticking sole in machine

I put ¿box toe? later, upping the upper, and later I give form with manual abrasive tool.

 

Your video is very learning, and the music is super!

 

I have one question.

What glue you put in toes and stiffener? I make my own with flour, water and a little of copper (for conservation).

But I've problems with clear colours, because sometimes are stains in stiffeners?.

 

I'm not sure if I writte the correct words.

 

 

Marcell, I go to make a post for you in the spanish forum.

 

And thanks to Shoerepairerforum for give me the opportunity of comunication with world shoeworkers

 

 

Health!

 

 

P.D: I've another question. Name of group music in your vídeo

[Guest Marcell]

Dear Corlas,

 

Methods are different country by country.. I don't use machines, only for finishing.

 

I don't remember the name of the glue, but when I get home, I will send you a link, where you can order it. 600 g is approx. 4 USD.

 

No problem with your words - I am not a native speaker, so I don't realize if you make mistakes. We understand each other and that's the point.

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

Corlas, you can get stiffeners for the Toes and Heels that have adhesive on one or both sides.

The adhesive is reactivated with heat, the stiffeners go soft so that you can mould them to any shape.

I have just thrown many samples away yesterday. If I find any more I will let you have them to practice with.

[Guest Marcell]

So, I am here again - I got the glue's name. It is called hirschkleber, and it as made for leather toes and heels. (long time ago shoemakers used this for all the processes)

 

Hugh-Candoit is right - the self activited stuff is easier (but you have to work quick), but - my opinion - not natural. Water resistant, so not healthy, like leather.

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

If the heated material goes cold you just reheat with a hot air gun or your wifes hair dryer

[Guest Marcell]

Anyway, the leather is much more healthy, so for high quality handmade man shoes I would never use anything else.

[Corlas]

And I think that is better for orthopedic works. So strong in the midle and so fine in the edge. I can personalize better.

 

And is so nice to work.

 

Health!

[Guest Marcell]

I don't have much experience in orthopedic shoes, so you must know that..

 

Actually: do you have some photos of your shoes?

I would be interested to see the other members' work.

[Corlas]

Hola Marcell, some photos..

 

 

In this forum

 

 

 

in the US forum

 

 

 

 

 

And in the spanish forum

 

 

 

This one, is a work three years ago, and the woman say me she want the same but in another more clear colour. The old and the future are in the pic.

 

 

 

 

This two, is the same. A man I made shoes, want change the colour and shoelaces for velcro closed.

In process...

 

 

I must say this two persons need orthopedic insoles. If you want, I will show when are finished.

 

Sorry for the quality of the pics, but I've taken now, at the moment.

 

This other are not orthopedic, are more artistic and more lovely...

 

Was her design. Today is her birthay. Ã

[Guest Marcell]

Thank you Carlos!

 

Nice work! Do you make the uppers also?

[Corlas]

Yes, I make all steps, this is my pain...

 

Health!

[Guest Marcell]

You can do it - so be happy! Many shoemaker can't make uppers, so your knowledge is really valuable. (in the worst case you can employ someone)

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

Anyway, the leather is much more healthy, so for high quality handmade man shoes I would never use anything else.

 

That is a matter of opinion, Leather absorbs Bacteria. Poor controls in certain countries mean that the Leather after Tanning can harbor Anthrax spores.

 

I prefer my Toe and Heel stiffeners to be man made as they keep the shape longer and better.

[Guest Marcell]

Well, interesting indeed. Fortunately none of my ancestors died of Anthrax. Looks like it was just a matter of luck .

 

I barely use man-made material because I (and my customers too) insist on natural products. But of course anyone should use what they feel appropriate - that's what makes our products unique in many ways.

[Corlas]

Hola

 

Mineral crome curtition is not healthy, vegetal is better.

 

But anthrax, is a little too much for me.

When you hot a plastic, there are vapours you smell, Hugh.

This is not health either.

 

Health for all!

[kobblers]

this is one of the most interesting topics i've had the pleasure of viewing in a long time the differences in opinion are as right as they can be and very informative. anthrax

great videos marcell, can't wait for part 4

 

i'd love to learn how to make shoes like that

 

rick.

[Guest Marcell]

I'm working on part 4 right now, and I'll be sewing the sole. I'll put it on the web as soon as I can.

And I welcome any kind of interesting pieces of information regarding the dangers of shoemaking.

[Hugh-Candoit (ENG)]

Corlas, you do not get vapours off the plasticized product. It is not Plasic as a substance but as a product that can be moulded when heated.

you do not need a lot of heat, ladies hair dryer would do the job.

 

You would never see Leather Heel stiffeners in sports shoes that have to stand much more severe stresses than walking shoes.

[Corlas]

Hola Hugh, I response in the quote for my better understanding

 

 

Corlas, you do not get vapours off the plasticized product. It is not Plasic as a substance but as a product that can be moulded when heated.

you do not need a lot of heat, ladies hair dryer would do the job.

 

The air which pass throught a resistance, is not health, and the touch with plastic, is not health neither. (Not more that to make stiffeners in leather).

 

You would never see Leather Heel stiffeners in sports shoes that have to stand much more severe stresses than walking shoes.

 

I repair sometimes the customers sports shoes of one cobbler friend who have a shop-taller. The plastic or sintetic heel stiffeners ever broken the lining in a few months. In mines (leather), lining can broken too, but in a few years.

 

Only (for my thinking ever) you can put sintetic in toe stiffeners, and in especial times.

 

 

Health!

 

 

Edit: Waiting the next vídeo of Marcell!