bristolcobbler Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 i always do number 4 scour either side of the pin always works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironplanet uk900 Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 Cracking post that Lee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 What post? I see nowt!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petercoulson Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 see http://www.shoerepairer.info/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1766 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 Oh I see now. Lee was suposed to provide the link was he Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shoegirl Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 Do all of you uses these methods? do you have problems with the dowelpins breaking inside the tubes? anybody use any other methods?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Klazykobbler Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 Hi all has anyone come across these cheapy import shoes that have a steal pin hidden down inside the tube. got a pair a few weeks back top peices were gone, no chance of getting the pin out, scoured them flat ,tried a pilot hole for drilling coud n't even make a dent in it. looked a bit closer and thought i could see the remains of an old pin. so thought they must have been repaired before so opted for punching the pin down. Snapped the puch after about three hits and couldn't get any further. I hate being beaten by a pair of shoes. I spoke to another repairer in the area he said he has seen a few of these and the next time i was in his shop ( blagging stock cause we had run out) he showed me the steal pin he had managed to get of one of the shoes. he reckons these are acutally weilded to the securing plate under the heel and even if you get the tube out they remain in place. these pins run nearly the full length of the tube leaving just enough space when new to put a top piece on. without heated pliers and without completely removing the heel any ideas any one? if this has been mentioned before sorry and just direct me to the link cheers. KLazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x minit uk Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 Hi, I have come across these several times and the only way I have managed is to take the tube out and replace. Once the tube is out you can remove the steel rod and repalce. Not a nice a nice job when the customer is waiting mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkb Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 we've been sabotaged also. can see no use of this system except to chalenge the good. that pin is floating, not attached to heel base i either shoten the heel pin or PULL it all out and cuss it. i think its a case of look before we leap. test hole depth as a matter of course. bkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Cobbler Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 We get both types - The fixed and loose steel rods. With the loose ones where the stiletto has worn down then it is just a case of shortening the rod slightly and dropping it back in before the top piece. These are used to strengthen the tube so it's safer to keep them in. On the fixed rods we use cobalt drill bits. These will cut through but they are very flexible so it's a case of going slowly or snapping an expensive drill bit. They will also happily go straight through the side of the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkb Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 we use a heel wheel. chk. out the hot nailer. gimmy bkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Klazykobbler Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 cheers wiltshire cobbler cobalt drill bits eh? they sound expensive gonna be a nightmare to persuade my skinflint of a boss to order "just in case" i get another pair of these bloody awful things. ta Klazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corlas Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 Hola, we are talking about it too in the spanish forum. I let here two ways more.. http://forodelcalzado.forogratis.es/vie ... ?p=691#691 http://forodelcalzado.forogratis.es/vie ... =1134#1134 Health! P.D: I hope Lee I post in the correct place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 Wiltshire cobbler is correct. I have been telling you about cobalt drill bits for 18 months or more and that stainless steel pin must not be removed, it is to strengthen an otherwise weak tube. some are fastened at the metal seat plate, some have a nut and some are not fixed. If you remove the rod you have to remove and replace the tube, otherwise the original tube will bend in use. (This advice comes via the Retailing Manufacturers / Importers). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkb Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 who-raw for the band saw. we use it a lot. a great tool when used with respect. bkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 The problem with Band saws apart from the Health & Safety aspect, is that you are lowering the Heel block, this upsets the balance, puts stress onto the tube due to a change of loading area and can cause faliure of the Block attachment due again to the leverage effect caused by imbalance. (A situation similiar to driving in Stilettos). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corlas Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 All ways are good, and all have specific difficulties and easiers. Health! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkb Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 dont loose your nerve or your fingers, and look both ways before you cross the street. as for shortening the heel, i have leather washers we've temperd by moistening ,hammering jacking and heating. we will use these to build up the cut of bkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corlas Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 dont loose your nerve or your fingers, and look both ways before you cross the street.as for shortening the heel, i have leather washers we've temperd by moistening ,hammering jacking and heating. we will use these to build up the cut of bkb Lost in traslation...I understand nothing. Sorry. Health! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkb Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 im sorry. it was early here and i typed before coffee. i was sticking up for the band saw, saying to take obvios precations. then i was explianing to a previous post how i over come the shortening of the heel. i use a piece of soleing leather that i wet, pound with a hammer to harden, then (between 2 iron plates) heat in an oven at 350 till done. (20 min or less). makes it HARD. dont over cook, it will crack. then with my B.S. ill cut out little heel lifts and drill for post, or vise versa. bkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 With all due respect bkb I would not like to be doing 100+ pairs a day with that method. As for "Cooking" Leather, I have that done by my wife every Saturday evening, she calls it a Steak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corlas Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 With all due respect bkb I would not like to be doing 100+ pairs a day with that method.As for "Cooking" Leather, I have that done by my wife every Saturday evening, she calls it a Steak Hey Hugh I'm losting total. (In traslation ) When you finish to play with the hotairmachine of your wife, (ever with humor). ¿You can clear me a little? I'm not understanding, because I think that 100pairs not need the same methode, don't? But is possible you are talking of aples and I of melocotones (peaches) Health! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkb Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 100 pr. a day and i wouldnt have time to share with you. i do keep a couple dozen on hand rather than making one at a time bkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh-Candoit (ENG) Posted August 14, 2007 Report Share Posted August 14, 2007 100 pairs was a conservative estimate, but a quicker way in you do not have a friend in Injection moulding would be to go to the Plastics factory and purchase a sheet of plastic 1/2" or 15mm thick. mark it in squares 15mm for half the sheet and 20mm for the rest of the sheet. Drill 7/16" holes I think the mm equivalent is 3mm or near, in the middle of all the squares, then cut down the lines with the Bandsaw. You then have hundreds of plastic building blocks ready to work with. You could purchase 1 small white sheet and 1 small black sheet. I'm surprised that the wholesalers never supplied these ready made when the plastic blocks 3" long went out of production in the 1970s. Unfortunately we dont have many inovative wholesalers in the UK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkb Posted August 15, 2007 Report Share Posted August 15, 2007 leather for me, plastic for you bkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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