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This is a covered raise for a young girl who is very fashion consious.


First we remove any nails or pins holding the heel block on using electric pliers then remove the sole and heel using a knife.


with the s+h unit we trace round a piece of 6mm thermo cork.



once this is shaped to the tracing lines we apply thin double sided stick tape and heat the cork to add to the cleaned boot.



we use a 6mm piece so that it conforms to the boot easier.


Then we build up to just above the required heights, then scour to exact heights and shape to original s+h unit.


Then shape in the heel and sole so both are not kicking out.


Now the cork raise can be removed to have the covering added.



We managed to source a good match for the boots from a local fabrics dealer. the seam for this cover is stitched down the back to match the boot, some shoes or boots can have the seam at the medial side.


We prefer to do it this way, as the material conforms better than adding to the boot first then raising the cork.

Now we glue the material to the cork making sure there is no creases on the covered raise.


Now the raise can be added to the boot making sure it lines up perfectly.


Now the original s+h unit can be added, we used Renia Ortec as it gives a better bond especially on the plastic heel block, then screwed thru the sock lining to secure the cork heel and plastic heel block. Any glue that cannot be removed at the join of the raise using crepe can be painted with a matching colour, we use Majix and mix several colours to obtain as close as.


Hope this helps.


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Ginger, you are putting good tutorials, congratulations!




This sintetic cork, is so light like virgin natural cork? I think is more heavy don't?

And is so strong like virgin cork?


Because I`ve never still found a material have the same performance, features of virgin cork.


The double sided stick must be so strong. I made it with light glue, (cement), the same we use before stick the courts.


Is really a good work, because you don´t have the lasts, and it need big precision to do well. If the first layer is not in good position, all work can be bad, you know...


My pain is I can't understand the words, but my hapiness is the hapiness of your customer. I'm sure she is happy. :wink:


Thanks Ginger, good work, and soon I hope you post in my forum witch is near to be open, almost open...




Edit: By the way, you have a brave customer, which is able to go with this little heel...

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One query gingerbas!! how is the heel now secured as it was secured by nails from inside the boot. As you have extended the height from the wearers heel to ground and put more leverage at the heel tip there should be some form of stablisation, or are you just relying on the attatchment of the block to sole and then sole to raise?


Just a point of interest again on very clean professional workmanship.

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Now the original s+h unit can be added, we used Renia Ortec as it gives a better bond especially on the plastic heel block, then screwed thru the sock lining to secure the cork heel and plastic heel block


Yup I was thinking the same.

Would need to be some long narrow gauge screws, with some accurate screwing to boot

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yes x minit anyone can obtain the cork and it was a good tutorial there are a number of alternative materials ,we had the cork gingerbas used and found it heavy as gypsy corlas says natural cork is much lighter and my understanding is that any raise done on behalf of the nhs is as follows/ up to 2inchs can be done in micro we used 12 mmfussels lightweight available in a few colours or medium densitf surgical eva any raise higher than two inchs must be done in natural cork, there was also a micro that we used for lower raises on rubber shoes and the thermo rubbers that we called reeco which was available in black brown white red burgandy toupe navy beige.in answer to your question on securing the heel we would use a long series drill to drill thru the heel and raise and secure it with a counter sunk nut and bolt thru the shank

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Would a metal plate on the underside of the outersole be feasable to attatch the plastic heel block to?? Providing of course that there is enough material either side of the plate for adhesion to the cork and cover?


How nice to get something to get yout teeth into for a change.

We live and learn as each day passes.

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sorry hugh maybe i wasnt quite clear we would remove the toppeice and then drill thru the heel block raise thru insole of shoe thencountersink the insole and put the bolt thru from the insole thru the raise and heelblock thenaddlocking bolt and refix toppeice

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that being the case hugh then i would use as they say plan b whichwould involve doing the raise as ginger does but at the stage where he covers it we woul cover the the lower half inch then split the raise add a piece of leather attatch the sole and heel put the raise back together finish off the cover then attatch to shoe. this is one form of cosmetic raise it could not be use on some moulded units ,the toughist one i had was on a wellington boot for a pig farmer not only did it require acosmetic raise it also needed a rocker sole with an outside sole wedge with out side sole and heel floats . then theres the one which required a socket and backstop on a white satin stilletto shoe pat tient wanted it for her wedding that was a tough one

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Well you came up trumps there elfman.

I knew that the thickness of the cork would cause a problem with stability of the block but never did I think of splitting the raise and adding the stability at the intersection, that's given me a whole new train of thought on the advice I get asked for the raises for the Paraplegic olympics. Though I dont get to do any alterations nowadays i do still get asked for advice on the best way to do the alteration as most of the new sports shoe styles are almost impossible to work with as the designs are so intricate.


Yer know I just knew this thread was going to produce results.

Many thanks for sharing that elfman :D

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no problem hugh by the way them intricate shoes were aways my faverts as were the beach sandels the lads in the work shop would not touch them and left them to me when asked how i was going to do them ,the stock answer was for the first half hour would be thinking of the best way to do it ,never any arguements from md or factory manger just left to get on with it

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Did a few when they first came out with Vulcanised rubber soles, The exterior fixed ones were the worst as I did not have Wooden/Plastic lasts to re-form the toe. With the Steel Cap inside you could hand last the upper around the Cap. would not care to do it now with PU mouldings to form fancy patterns around the edges.

Did the last pair by reming the sole then after the alteration (made larger as the cap was hurting and no romm for anything to go inside)put a randing on that was pre-formed from Davies &Co, cant remember the name of them but they were similiar to the foxing on walking boots and they also tuned under the lasting margin. Then put on one of the softer Vibram type units.


It would have been nice to have spent the last 10 years of my working life just sitting back and finding solutions to these problems with the diversification of manufacturing styles and materials :wink:

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