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Welt stitching the Myers way!


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Although re-welting has been covered as a tutorial before I thought I would show you a simple toe repair variation using the Myers Sewing awl. This is basically a hand held sewing machine which has the advantage of using a lock stitch for each stitch cast.

 

This is the shoe with its well worn toe, needing repair.

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First of all I removed the damaged welt at the toe & Sized a new welting roughly the right length. Next I thinned and skived both the welt on the shoe & its replacement by about ¾" each side. I personally prefer using the machine to a knife as I can achieve a longer smoother skive which will be over around 3 stitches long which aids to its long term durability.

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For a short length of welting such as this I next mark holes roughly where the original ones are with a pen, then I use my 29K to put in place pilot holes (makes it a bit easier & quicker when stitching)

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With the first stitch using a Myers awl its important to pull through the amount of thread you need before starting stitching.

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Then away you go! Passing the needle through the work and drawing back to create a lop in which to pass your thread (creating the lock stitch)

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Half way round.

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Stitching complete.

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Once the stitching is done I glue the skive joint & trim the new welt ready for stitching.

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Next I replace the cork middling with new, and repair in the normal manor.

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Job Done, The Myers sewing awl is a great tool, not only for welting but many other stitching applications.

 

Lee

 

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Yes indeed I did charge,

 

Leather 1/2 sole and Heel £28

Toe Welt repair £12

 

Total job £40

 

The toe stitching took around 25 minute including taking the picture so normally takes around 15-20 minutes in total.

 

Lee

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  • 8 months later...
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we use a jerk needle , similar to a mckay needle or blake as you all say.

it has the advantage of being able to stitch blind, as long as you can reach it. thread choice is a bit easier. i find the hook less of a contraption. however, i tried the myers tool only once.

bkb

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Using the Blake type needle this wasy,

 

Get a Wooden Handle, a 12" piece of quarter inch round steel bar.

insert the bar into the handle.

Drill the end of the bar and insert the neddle (must be very tight fit).

 

This tool can now be used to get down inside the toes of shoes/boots for stitching Doc Martens type welts from the outside to inside.

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well i was thinking of mentioning the thickness of the needles being an issue with the blake. you are correct. i use an American straight needle. it being a 1/3 the thickness. chain stitch mckays are smaller. then abby saddlery sells hook needles for this purpose. then of course your out stitcher needle works for special needs.

great tip on the handle to stitch inside. will try that soon.

bkb

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Using a blake needle can split the edge of the welt and the upper if your to close to the edge, as the needles are too thick.

 

bkb has already mentioned it but, there are different sizes of blake needle, though I'm not recommending this technique it does have its uses.

dont forget that the Awl you may be using is in parts thicker than or as thick as a blake needle. These are aslo available in different sizes thought most just use the thicker one.

 

Interesting that you use Abbey Saddlery bkb!!!!

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