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Measure, measure and measure again.

 

If you get it wrong and the customer forces the key you are in the worst case scenario.

 

We always advise opening the door and locking it in the open position before trying the key.

 

If it does jam, then it is a lot easier too fix as the door is open.

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Measure, measure and measure again.

 

If you get it wrong and the customer forces the key you are in the worst case scenario.

 

We always advise opening the door and locking it in the open position before trying the key.

 

If it does jam, then it is a lot easier too fix as the door is open.

 

 

That's great advice, Graham.

 

Rick.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dropped a bit of a bollock with this. The blank won't fit in the groove of the clamp as the screw is in the way of the other bit. Could i do it by clamping the bit and lining it up with the front edge ie; the pipe not in the clamp? Or am i asking for trouble..

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On my RS206 I have the keys held by the pipe, but with the bits just to the right of the clamping blocks (helped by the recesses in the clamping blocks). Line up front edges of blank and original key with cutter and tracer and away you go. I know it may sound obvious, but keep making sure the bit you're cutting is always perpendicular to the cutter.

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Funny enough I cut a double bit key yesterday , a stuv type , the guy also left some shoes for repair. I always line the bit up to the guide and cutter and don't normally have a problem. I have a lancer mk 1 by the way. Anyway, he comes in today for his shoes and I say to him, was your key ok mate, nah he says , wouldn't work, but never mind these things happen. So I said oh, have you got it with you, he replied no I've had it done in Gloucester , a bloke done it with one of those laser machine things, only took a couple of minutes . He then picked his shoes up and left the shop. So my question to you key cutting experts is, are there any such laser machines that can cut safe/mortice type keys. ???? .

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