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BMW motorcycle key - silca bw9


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Hi all,

 

Got this key in.  The customer has lost the main key and has this plastic key as a spare.  It has the chip it it and it works the bike.  The Miracle A9 will not decode it as it wont fit in the correct position in the clamp so i tried to decode it by eye.  I have very limited experience in this but as theres only 3 potential cut depths i decided to give it a go.  The key that i cut looks different but i notice the A9 does this on magnum keys etc and they still work... or i may have decoded it incorrectly?  I entered 1233-3211 

 

Anyone any advice? 

Thanks

 

 

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This is a 4 track key And the distance from shoulder to first cut is not the same for both axis. 3.6mm from shoulder to centre of 1st cut for axis 1 and 5.9mm from shoulder to centre of 1st cut for axis 2. You have all the info you need from GP's picture of Silca software.

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Graham is correct and none of that will work.

 

Key needs to be from right to left and use the end spacer.

Go and select the correct key and press the cut or decode picture and will change from left to right to right to left.

 

Hi Lockdecoders,

 

Is there a problem cutting the bw9 key on the miracle a9?  I tried it 3 times.  The cut does look quite different (as per the photos in the original post)  Got NW keys to cut me one and the cut looked the same as the original key and it worked grand.

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Go on. I'll bite.

Spend £15 on a digital calliper, 15 minutes googling how to use it, and 15 seconds to look at the series on Instacode.

 

How anyone can struggle with such a basic key is beyond me, I can decode the thing by eye from a crap picture viewed on my iPhone. Come on guys this is child's play, if you were struggling with a HON66 I agree they are hard to measure but this is easy.

Hi Locksafe... I can see this frustrates you just a weee bit? :smt067

 

I guess my point is i spent muchas monies on a digital machine which is fully calibrated (to do this job for me) and the key looks completely different. 

 

Just wondering why.

 

p.s - what comes easy to you may not come easy to another...i bought a digital caliper out of lidl a few weeks back and when i do learn to use it my question will still be the same.  Why doesn't my key look the same, and why doesn't it work if the machine is calibrated?

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Open Instacode and type in the key blank, it will then list all series for that blank, take a look at the "card" number, each card number is the same D&S information regardless of how many series use the same card.

The basic information in Instacode firstly shows the blank width, measure the key you have and compare the width of the blank in hand to what Instacode claims the blank should be (almost always different but don't worry about that yet)

You would then look at the spacing, let's say the first space is 250 from the shoulder, you would measure 2.50mm from the shoulder and that's where the first cut should be, measure the width from the edge at that point to the cut depth (IC will have a picture)

Let's say that it measures 6.40mm and your depths in IC are 650 and 610, remember a key wears smaller so always go for the higher of the two (650 in this case) if it's a copy key you have then it may have been cut badly so that may not work.

 

 

Going to try this next week.  Thanks for the help.

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