Jump to content

CLARKS mens and ladies shoes GLUE?


Guest k@lsb
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest k@lsb

is it me,or has anyone else noticed this, ive been having a lot of other repairers clarks shoe repairs coming in to be re glued again as it is coming unstuck alot, have also in the last 2 weeks had a couple that ive done come back for re sticking as well? have clarks changed the compound these are being made out of......im still using the little green bottle of primer on the shoes,followed by 50/50 glue on the units and on the pvc soles giving them 15 mins to set approx heating ,then sticking together. have never used much else on these units..as they seem to be such a pig to stay stuck after a months ware.........anyone got any other tips, or use any other soughts of glue to stick these,that will stay stuck....any tips or tricks welcomed...im not to old to learn..or ashamed to ask...thxs guys pps the little yellow bottles of primer what do most repairers use this one for on what materials and which glue???????????? #-o what works best??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, I use the yellow label primer for these type of repairs, brush it on and leave it for a good 15 mins then 50/50. Place the new soles/heels straight under the heat lamp until turn white then press on, but not to hard up and down action. I think if you use green label you need to apply 50/50 within the first couple of minutes. I never seem to get many back to be fair just the odd one here and there. :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi I always use renia rehagol primer 1st then renia glue 2 coats ad i think you will not have any probs.

if using bostic 6092 (i have recently changed to renia) still use the renia rehagol then apply 2 coats thinly but don't heat up you could just warm the top piece so its easier to cut but not hot or it will peel.

I find though that renia primer and renia glue is stroger and more reliable than bostic 6092, i have nevver ben a fan of 50/50 except when using those old automagic plastic sas on the old style plastic.

 

gutten targ

sie ist einen kranken yah

Link to comment
Share on other sites

funnily enough i noticed the same problem a while back and would welcome an answer to the problem as i've tried everything i know and every combination of glues and adhesives . (no superglue yet but give it time :lol: )

 

i've noticed that there seems to be a tacky feeling glue residue on the original components and scouring it doesn't solve the problem, if anything it makes it worse.

 

i've also tried to thin down the tacky glue residue to make it weaker but this hasn't helped either.

 

if anyone has any more ideas i could try then i'd be grateful for the input as i truned a pair away today as i'm gettign fed up of having them returned constantly which then costs me.

 

cheers guys, rick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi ther is also another renia glue called ortec or simular type name.

some of thewse plastics that are oily some people put tissue or paper on them first and press lightly then aaplly primer i can not remeber details but renia sent out a leaflet at one point about this.

try the renia website if thwere is one.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

burning off doesnt work properly just catch the toe and the whole thing will peel. Whats been working for me is 'S10 primer' ( I think its made by 'BALL' ) brushed onto the shoe and the new sole left to dry for 5 mins then coated with 50/50 and left until completely dry then heated up and put on as normal but not machine pressed, then leave it to cool down completely before cutting round with knife and trimming. Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest k@lsb
There have been several comprehensive tutorial type posts on the uses of Adhesives in the past, are they still accessible as they cover all the problems mentioned herein.?

 

 

 

i agree with you hugh, but there definatly is alot of confusion still within the trade...........why has no manufacture bought a glue out that will work without primers etc yet?(its year 2008 now)

 

there is still no definate 100% fact way to get these to stick...can anyone make a step by step video and place on you tube .using both above primers with pvc products and resin products would be an interesting watch..you could post the link on here....would help clear up alot of confusion on this subject.....................thxs to all who have replied...and hope more will.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a video made by Renia & Kommerling Adhesives a couple of years ago but it really is about time that it was realised that preparation and method is more important than the 'Adhesives.

There are a multitude of Polyurethane variations used in manufacturing and each manufacturer has adhesives made to work best with their particular variety of PU.

If the adhesives manufacturer could made and adheshive that would stick-em-all they would be onto it like a shot because it would ensure their companies furtunes.

The only material that has caused a problem to me is the perished units of the older Clarks ex Polyveldts (Thermoplastic).

Ive seen quite a few hair raising ideas already on this post that will be enough to ensure a sleepless night tonight (wont be able to get to sleep for laughing :wink: )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

once again i find myself agreeing with hugh there is a fortune waiting to be made by the person who can make aglue that sticks every thing, this topic takes me back to the time 2 sales reps from renia came to the factorypromoting there glues ,the factory manager met and talked to them and then brought them o me ,therehopening speech was a glue that stuck every thing like hugh i said no chance they replied there glue will stick anything when combined with there primersmy reply was intat case your glue does not stick every thing, however one good thig did come from this meeting ,as i was no longer keen on the revamped foss 1222 and was not keen on there multicolle they gave me a tin of there ortec cement and have used nothing else since then.

now my own views are for pvc plastics foss 8016 now no longer made so i now use renia syntic

thrmo plastics or thermo rubbers it was gripsotite pta now not avaiable so you could try the foss 8020 or the renia syntic

i do not use any prmers at all the way i prepare the clarks and thermo shoes is as follows pour some kumzoff in a jar apply to sole and heel of shoe and rub briskly with a saude brush but do not bend shoe whilst doing this or it will break up leave to dry for five to ten mins then brush of the the crumbs that form with astiff brush and apply either the renia ortec or syntic and finish as normal

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I think Caswells was purchased by F.Ball & Co of Leek Staffs totake care of the Adhesive side of the business for Shoe repairs and others, Balls adhesives for repairers are just a very small part of their adhesive business as most of it is made for the buiding industry, floor ing adhesive in particular is their biggest seller (or was some years ago).

 

S10 primer is the oldest primer on the market and was brought out before most of todays materials were even invented. We used to make our own by having a jar of thinners to which we added polystyrene chippings until the desired viscosity was obtained, surprizing how much it will take.

A similiar product was marketed by the joinery trade for saling wood afer rot had been removed prior to filling and sanding. S10 does the same.

S10 is only suitable providing an adequate key is provided for the primer to sink into and set, as is the case with all adhesives. A smooth surface is not the ideal surface for an adhesive to bond to. It needs a rough surface for the solvent to carry the adhesive down into the mini channels created by a rough band or hand tool.

No matter what adhesive you use, if the preparation is not correct you will have problems.

 

Good tip from elfman, but as he says, do not bent the shoe under any circumstances.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if the shoe is made of chrome tan leather, Reina recommends ' Hardener ' added to the colle series. assuming the sole is not TR or PUR it should require no other additives, other than the ' Hardener '. the Hrd diffinitly creates a firmer bond.

correct matt. identification, aggressive scouring, heat reactivation, and pressing,..... or

bkb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...