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No your not on ya own there Danny,

 

These fancy keys are useless!! from a professional point of view. (unless you are using a dedicated profile as in the FunKey range excluding UL types)

 

I've had to replace 3 euro profile cylinders in UPVC doors so far, due too keys breaking/jamming in the locks.

 

The very fact that they are manufactured in brass with a thinner, more open profile (wider milled flutes) lends itself to a weak & inferior key.

The main problem with these blanks or any universal profile, is because of their open profile, is how best to clamp them for cutting, if they are clamped on the back edge this could lead to the cut being marginally too shallow or too deep, the same could apply if clamped via the bottom milling/flute.

 

I am now clearing my stocks of these, with an add disclaimer of whether they will perform correctly,

I may also off-load them on ebay to get rid.

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LOL, there shouldn't be any amount of torque when turning a key that's cut correctly for the lock, if there is any resistance it's not cut exact,

The cuts are too shallow allowing the bottom pins to sit proud in the plug, hence binding on the cylinder, if the key actually turns at all,

The shape/size of the bow is irrelevant if the key is cut correctly & free turning.

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Guest Rich32

It's just not the cutting of the key which could cause this.

 

It could also be down to a poorly fitted lock or a door which has bowed or needs re-hanging. If the bolt or lock mechanism isn't working correctly or lined up correctly then the key will struggle to turn.

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Just a question - as mentioned before - if these are used with only the correct profile to match and the cuts are 100% spot on - there should not really be any jaming of these keys in the locks ?? I would guess !!

 

So if the keys are snapping is it becuase the sections being copied are not a true match to these keys !

 

Just thinking aloud :idea:

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  • 2 months later...

Just put a note on my counter. DUE TO A FAULT WE HAVE REMOVED THE DISNEY KEY RANGE UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE!.

Had to do a 30 mile round trip sat afternoon to remove a broken disney I had cut earlier. So that's a £35 call Plus Shop closed for about 2 hours (inc Travel) which I'm out of pocket :x . Customer said the key worked fine but came to take it out of the door it just snapped. The problem is the first and second cut. Any deeper than a 3 and the key will snap. Actually you can snap the key even without cutting they are that thin.

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LOL, there shouldn't be any amount of torque when turning a key

 

I agree entirely.

if there is any resistance it's not cut exact,

 

Not true though Tel, the bolt may be fouling the door frame, in which case even a perfect key would expirience resistance.

The cuts are too shallow allowing the bottom pins to sit proud in the plug, hence binding on the cylinder, if the key actually turns at all,,

 

which is someting that happens all the time nowadays with the UL1 for everything merchants out there, if a customer come in with a already copied key as a UL1, you have no chioce but to do the same.

 

 

The shape/size of the bow is irrelevant if the key is cut correctly & free turning.

 

I agree with Tel.

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I no longer support the supply of these inferior & gimmicky products,

 

All my stock was returned to the supplying company, Thanks for the credit note

do you think we should all ask for credit notes, give em all back! it is there cra* anyhow.? :evil:

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Sent mine back Monday. Must admit although I don't use UL1 or UL2, I do use the JMA U5D for the cheap foreign locks with no name on them. I feel steel's alot harder than the brass, Just not good on your blade. Anybody using the UL1/2 and Disney, Try snapping a UL1/2 then snap a Disney key. Will waste £1.75 but will proove my point and may save you a Locksmith call-out.

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I have to give credit were its due, I've never had an issue with Davenport Burgess's English made blanks, never had any break and the profiles are acurate.

 

However my shoe repair rep is always pounding me with how cheap they are on there chinese blanks, and I have surcome to his sales pitch a few times when its been more convieniant. But have had lots of trouble with them, 16hl, 36m, don't work because the profile isn't correct, UL1's do twist on the ocassion that I have to use them. Cheap chinese blanks are not the way for me.

 

I don't use cheap and nasty shoe repair materials so why use inferior key blank products. Its Davenport Burgess all the way for me. :wink:

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