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Scour the upper off :lol:
:lol: :lol: 8)

 

He's funny, you have to admit it! but I can't help you with how to get sh!t of a blanket as I don't make a habit of letting anyone sh1t on my bed.....

 

I don't know whether it would work, but I recently observed that unlike kumzof,thinners or white spirit, methylated spirit does not seam to melt TR, so if it loosens the glue it could be used in a simular way to Kumzof.

 

But bear in mind I haven't tried it, it might melt your unit so be cautious.

 

Lee

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I think if I were to tackle this one I'd be tempted to use heat.

 

The heat lamps used in the trade I tend to find are pretty fierce.. Burning the surface before warming the whole item right through.

 

My preferred method is to use a fan heater.. I don't own a heat cabinet at all. I use a 3 kw fan heater for all my heated bonding work.

 

It is also very effective when it comes to re activating glues without damaging either uppers or units...

 

Obviously you need to exercise some caution and don't put the heater too close or it will just trip out on it's thermostat... About 12 - 18 inches away seems to work well for me..

 

Hope it helps..

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When confronted with this problem for manufacturers I chose 1 of 2 solutions and I doubt whether the units you have are true TR as this substance in its pure form went out some years ago. there is TP-PUR but this is quite different although the charateristics are similiar.

 

Method 1 and this would have been chosen if the sole at its thinnest point was less than 15mm would be to remove both soles completely and after raising the one needed I would have put on a new pair of sole units.

 

Method 2 would be to slice through the midsole at a point as high as possible away from the upper (for 2 reasons a, to avoid going through the insole and b, avoiding the sidewall mouldings) The knife should be quite wide and ultra sharp with an even gradual tap er on both sides so that it will cut straight. I would not go right through to the toe leaving 5mm as a type of hinge. The riase can then be inserted and after scouring to shape the original sole can then be attached. If there were any undulations on the moulding and sidewall that had to be followed I used a Dremel type tool to get into the reccess's (actually a flexible attachment for the electric drill with small sanding/grinding discs as Dremel were not available at that time.

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Is the unit direct moulded or bonded?

 

I think its injection moulded on, so I know it will be tough to remove without damaging the unit.

Just wondered if anyone had any magic ideas.

 

I think if I were to tackle this one I'd be tempted to use heat.

 

You couldn't possibly use heat as this material turns to putty at the least bit of heat, looses its shape which is impossible to get back.

 

Method 1 and this would have been chosen if the sole at its thinnest point was less than 15mm would be to remove both soles completely and after raising the one needed I would have put on a new pair of sole units.

 

Great thought Hugh, Problem is they are fashion shoes (Firetrap) with a pretty unique unit. I wanted to try and keep it original as possible.

 

Slicing it off is a possibility but the unit is quite thin.

 

I may be forced to build straight on top of the unit, and tell him "ex minit" did it :lol: :lol:

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll have to sleep on it

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hugh is right uk they are the besttwo ways however there is a third way but it depends on how the unit is bonded .i have managed to do this on a number shoes if you heat the first half inch of th toe area gently you may be able to peel it backif this works you should be able to do the rest in easy stages .it is also possable to use kumzoff the secret lies in using a brush to apply it to the inside of the upper and allowing it to soak thru to the unit to release it that way the unit will only perish if kumzoff is applied directly to it and thenbent or twisted in any way

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I think that most repairers are not aware of the dmage Kunzoff can do to the unit elfman, as you say it is risky.

 

Most important before going with any suggestion is to positively identify the material involved.

 

Set the shoe on fire and see what colour smoke comes off the sole unit :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

You dont say what style of shoes they are UK, are they Trainers/Casuals/Boots, am aware of Firetrap in clothing but not footwear, not industrials are they?

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Set the shoe on fire and see what colour smoke comes off the sole unit :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

ay up, Hughs been to the fridge to many times tonight :lol: :lol: :lol:

ya daft beggar :lol:

 

You dont say what style of shoes they are UK, are they Trainers/Casuals/Boots, am aware of Firetrap in clothing but not footwear, not industrials are they?

 

Casuals Hughby. I am well aware the damage that some solutions can do to these kind of materials, thats why I asked if anyone had any magic adeas. Thanks for the thoughts chaps. I'm sure I'll overcome it tomorrow.

 

uk900

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Guest shoegirl
What we need is some sort of heated element like a cheese wire that would acurately slice through the unit :idea: . Well I know what I mean anyway. :lol:

 

There is such a thing..you just wont find it at your local jobber. Craft/hobby stores carry this as a "styrofoam cutter", they tend to be a little pricy. http://www.warmglass.com/c11p80a.jpg

 

But if you have the patience and time a cake leveler (for layered cakes) you can heat this up under your heat lamp but it does cool down quickly. http://fantes.com/images/21439cake_cutters.jpg

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I tried tose styrafoam cutters shoegirl but probably due to heavy handed use the element kept breaking, also the fumes can be dangerous so a substantial mask was needed that cost more than the cutter.

 

I tried a Bandsaw and while you can control the top cutting line, you dont know what is happening underneath and you end up with a wibbly wobbly cut on one side.

 

A heated Cobblers knife works just as well but you have to keep re-heating and the fume problem is still there.

 

I still prefer the ultra sharp knife to slice through, mind you my hands would create a wibbly wobbly line nowadays.

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band saw man. been using a saw for years. 3/8 x 4- tooth. no wobbel . i set the project aganst a square 4x4, and get to cutting. i can slice it thin. nobodys perfect theres been misscuts, but always repairable. sharp blade is ness. we get aprox 20 cuts(sometimes 1 cut) on a $10 blade before weve hit to many hard things. must stay confident and focused, but you know that, thats what we do :wink:

bruce

bkb leather

kansas, usa

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