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Know how you feel. I did it twice. The first time just after I started up I managed to put two stitches into the upper. I used a warmed wax stick rubbed into the damage and it hid ok. It was on the inside. The second time I was not so lucky. Couldn't hide the damage and held my hand up. I don't do things by half as they were 15 year old hand made jobs. Customer was great about it and was happy to take the cost of the through sole and heel as compensation.

Hope you get success or an understandng customer.

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1. Glue down any little flaps of leather

2. Use 240 grit wet and dry (dry) and gently sand the area to get rid of any feathered edges.

3. Fill any holes which remain with either wax or SUPERGLUE (ouch incoming)

4. Re-sand

5. use your standard edge colour to cover the area

6. Use kiwi parade gloss, apply thickly and use a WET duster and work in small circles untill you achieve a nice shine.

 

Lee

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1. Glue down any little flaps of leather

2. Use 240 grit wet and dry (dry) and gently sand the area to get rid of any feathered edges.

3. Fill any holes which remain with either wax or SUPERGLUE (ouch incoming)

4. Re-sand

5. use your standard edge colour to cover the area

6. Use kiwi parade gloss, apply thickly and use a WET duster and work in small circles untill you achieve a nice shine.

 

Lee

 

Good post that Lee, thats exactly what we would have done. People might scoff at the super glue thing, but it hardens off the area so you can sand it down.

Prevention is the best cure though, If you have a machine that often stitches the upper, it might be that you need to sharpen the awl at a different angle, so that it doesn't keep pulling the job in towards the machine.

Or the awl may just need replacing.

You may be surprised at the difference at re-angling the awl may have. :wink:

The table may be worn also, that may need replacing.

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Great advice chaps, the super glue and sand it was the way I went and it pretty much covered it up.

 

UK900 you are right about the awl, this morning I had to stitch a pair and although I managed to get round ok somethong did not feel right so I checked out the awl, it was slightly bent and the tip was very blunt. :x

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hi chaps

i had probs with stiching uppers but made a guard out of trophy alu,channged the table also as I believe some pull the shoe in to the machine more than others, if you change the angle of your awl or make then i belive you mighyt also need to change your needle to suit, your'll have to check with keith or peter on this.

I changed the table 15 years ago and added the guard and have not had to worry about uppers since then but my machine is really old so not up on new ideas or parts, i hope this is of some use.

kind regards Paul

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I agree with Hugh, But I don't believe that a gaurd is needed if the machine is set up properly.

I've just brought a Newish goodyear off a guy who couldn't get on with it, and preferes to blake all his soles on :evil:

He had made a Guard for it... The first thing I did was take it off and make a few small adjustments and the thing is perfect. No stitching of the uppers.

 

Just another thought... Sometimes it can be the operator, I remember training my son, He used to force the shoe into the machine too much when approaching the instep. There is a knack to outsole stitching, just like most things.

If the machine is in good working order and set up correctly & the operator lets the machine do the work, instead of leaning into the machine like their trying to get an elephant into a mini. then you'll never stitch an upper.

When I used to work for Mr T many moons ago, one guy in our shop would stitch the upper on a regular basis..... I never had a problem with it :!:

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