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If you are using half soles dont produce a thin waist on the new sole.

Use large head rivets at the waist or the sole will pull through, oh and bring the sole well down.

Same logic applies to all Chrome soles, (this is the greeny grey section in the middle of Dri-Ped Oak soles and are used primarily on Industrial boots.

For any young ones who have not repaired with this stuff it is usually a low grade leather soaked in grease, the grit off the concrete or pavement gets embedded in the greased outer surface and is then very difficult to wear out.

Must be stitched or rivited and do not attempt a stick-on-sole on new shoes.

Quite hard but will soften with gentle heat.

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  • 1 month later...

This was covered in some great depth in another post but cant remember under what heading so here is a quickie as they say.

Chrome is a greenish/greyish colour that is impregnated with a form of grease (probably old chip fat :lol: ) it is hard wearing due to the material picking up and retaining grit, it is the grit that stops the leather from further wear. Dri-ped has a thin mid section of this crome running through the middle so it looks like a sandwich when sliced through. Neither material will be adhesive friendly.

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I dont think so, and there are several versions of chrome in use on Bags , Shoe Uppers,Belts Etc. the chrome for Soling as in "outsoles" used on Industrial footwear is the one with the grease and is greeny grey in colour.

Dri-Ped if my memory serves me right was marketed under the nameof Dri-Ped Oak and had a mid section of chrome. that does not however say that the Dri-Ped company did not make a Dri-Ped full Chrome sole.

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I know they are not meant to be glued, thats why people don't like working with it, It makes life a little more difficult when you are stitching it.

Dri-ped cuts like "cheese" without warming, because of the oils impregnated into it, no need to warm it. But to be fare most things will cut easier when warm. Putting Dri-ped under a lamp for to long will encourage the oils to dry up and making it less effective for the purpose it was designed for.

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Primers do not work on grease, period.

 

Biff, your dad is correct in saying that to warm Dri-Ped made them easier to work with but, todays guys think that everything has to be heated by Inra red heaters but your dad did not have these in the early days. Dri ped was reasonably soft toward full chrome, those were rgid and had to be heated before being used. Heated by means of hot water then carried around inyour apron pocket to become pliable.

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Mind you when was the last time you repaired dri-ped? must be 10 years for me at least.

The only thing I have seen them on recently is work boots, and with health and safety, most mid sized up companies issue them free anyway so they dont get repaired.

and talking of times of change, Its quite a few months since I did a DM unit & these I used to do daily!

 

Lee

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Primers do not work on grease, period.

 

Biff, your dad is correct in saying that to warm Dri-Ped made them easier to work with but, todays guys think that everything has to be heated by Inra red heaters but your dad did not have these in the early days. Dri ped was reasonably soft toward full chrome, those were rgid and had to be heated before being used. Heated by means of hot water then carried around inyour apron pocket to become pliable.

 

Got some dri-ped I've had for ages, warmed it up with hot water. Made no difference whatsoever. just made my bollocks wet in my overall pocket :lol:

By the way I don't heat everything, infact I try to avoid it were possible.

"todays guys" does that mean everyone still in the trade??? :?

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Primers do not work on grease, period.

 

Biff, your dad is correct in saying that to warm Dri-Ped made them easier to work with but, todays guys think that everything has to be heated by Inra red heaters but your dad did not have these in the early days. Dri ped was reasonably soft toward full chrome, those were rgid and had to be heated before being used. Heated by means of hot water then carried around inyour apron pocket to become pliable.

 

If I remember rightly my Dad used to use an electric heater. He packed up around 15 years ago and he still has a lot of stuff in his shed. I don't know if any of you guys would be interested in it? I'll stick it on eBay when I get the time at a cheap price. It's all still in good condition and I'm sure someone will be able to use it. There's loads of Topy stick on soles and heels, complete units etc. I'll sort it out and get a picture if anyone is interested then stick it on eBay.

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  • 2 months later...

just to let you know gents that i have manage to glue dri ped successfully in the past ,it is a lengthy process but it can be done and have also trained one or two of the staff in the company how to do it as for doc martins the comany i onced worked for used to turn them away as unrepairable becouse they could not get them to stick even with the heat knife even to the point where they were asking there suppliers for help on the matter ,it was only when a pair was esnt in for an adaption like a raise and socket and i said no probs they all said no way to which i replied piece of cake,then proved it

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just to let you know gents that i have manage to glue dri ped successfully in the past ,it is a lengthy process but it can be done and have also trained one or two of the staff in the company how to do it as for doc martins the comany i onced worked for used to turn them away as unrepairable becouse they could not get them to stick even with the heat knife even to the point where they were asking there suppliers for help on the matter ,it was only when a pair was esnt in for an adaption like a raise and socket and i said no probs they all said no way to which i replied piece of cake,then proved it

 

I'm dying to know how you cemented dri-ped, as I don't beleave it can be done without extracting the oil's it's impregnated with, thus making using dri-ped pointless. :?

 

Please tell me more elfman :shock:

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