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I have found on nwk services web site the fobs, loads cheaper than your link! but now I know I can get them. can anyone tell me how to program them, before I order one only to discover I can't do that bit!



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Yep, I appreciate that and sure it says follow sell programming sequence but gives no details..... what do I do to program it? point it at the car? do I need two fobs like some transponders? do I press a button on the alarm control box? switch on the rear wash wipe :smt022


HOW do I program them!!!!!!!!!

I know a bit of history to the car and I know fobs have been a problem in the past, which is why I am reluctant to order one until I know how to get the car to recognize the new one.



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I understand the fob can be programmed in the following way:


(It may take several attempts and the timing must be correct for it to work)


1)Starting conditions: ignition off, doors unlocked, bonnet switch depressed.


2)Steps 3 to 9 MUST be carried out within 8 seconds.


3)Switch ignition ON.


4)Switch ignition OFF.


5)Lock doors.


6)Unlock doors.


7)Release bonnet switch.


8)Switch ignition ON.


9)Switch ignition OFF.


If alarm is correctly accessed, the horn will sound and LED will light. It is now possible to programme two handsets of correct frequency to vehicle alarm ECU.


This must be carried out within two minutes.


10)Press and hold down button on first handset until dash LED flashes.


11)Repeat instruction for second handset.


12)The LED will extinguish if both handsets have been initialised correctly.

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I found these instructions also but here is my problem which is where someone who has actually done it may be able to help!


The car has had its alarm unarmed, although the button still arms the immobiliser and the LED still flashes.


Stages 5/6 can this be done using the immobiliser button I currently have.

Stages 7 what is a bonnet switch ? Is this a button on the alarm under the bonnet?


If alarm is correctly accessed, the horn will sound and LED will light. It is now possible to programme two handsets of correct frequency to vehicle alarm ECU.


Does this mean I have to re-programme the original as well as the new one to achieve 2 working buttons?


As you can see with the central locking and alarm de-activated I may be up against it with this one!!!!!



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I think the bonnet switch probably isn't the bonnet release, since this is a lever and a cable direct to the catch.


This car is actually a metro GTi so isn't to sophisticated I could re-enable the alarm to do the programming but since I don't know why it was disabled in the first place this probably wouldn't help with the fob.



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The early Rovers follow the same manual procedure as Land Rover

The bonnet switch is just that, (a electrical contact switch) & located under the bonnet on the front cross member, I think



Land Rover 1996 (single Button oval shape)

1. Ensure ignition is OFF, dors unlocked, bonnet switch closed.

2. Ensure procedure from 3 to 9 is completed within 8 seconds.

3. Switch Ignition ON

4. Switch Ignition OFF

5. Lock Doors and Unlock Doors

6. Release Bonnet Switch

7. Switch Ignition ON

8. Switch Ignition OFF

IIf alarm is set, horn will sound and LED with light. Now programming of

plips can be completed.

10. Press and hold down button on Plip until LED flashes.

11. Repeat for additional plips.

12. The Dash LED will extinguish if both plips have been programmed





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Is the Omega a diesel and if so is it the BMW engine?


Doesn't matter what fuel it runs, All Vauxhall keys or remotes are programmed using diagnostic equipment




The General Motors Immobiliser is used in conjunction with the vehicle

engine management electronics to immobilise the vehicle. The first

systems were fitted to Petrol vehicles and subsequently fitted to Diesel

vehicles from 95½ Model Year.

The immobiliser system is independent, and can be diagnosed separately .

The system is also operated independently from the central locking

system, and it’s main function is to inhibit starting.

Immobiliser Control Unit

The immobilisers function is to transmit the start signal to the engine

management ECU after it has read the key fob code. If the code is

recognised the immobiliser sends the signal and the ECU compares the

code with what is programmed. If the signal is incorrect the engine which

is allowed to start initially is then switched OFF. If there is a malfunction

then the engine check light mounted in the instrument panel will flash.

The system uses what is called an IMO (Immobiliser Signal Code) signal

to talk to the electronic engine management system, or for Diesel vehicles

the Fuel Cut-off Solenoid.

The control unit can only be re-programmed if the necessary security code

is entered, which is found on the customer vehicle information card (CAR


Transponder (Mounted in key fob)

The key fob contains a small electronic circuit (Transponder) which is

powered when in close proximity to the control unit using cordless voltage

power. Each transponder has a different code for security.

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Well the story of the fob is this, the car is actually my own metro Gti which I am planning on doing a couple of track days in. It came with just one fob, and I was aware the previous owner had, had problems with it.

I brought the fob from one of the suppliers who is a member here on the forum NW key services using their web site, and very easy that was, however I actually ordered the wrong one! No problem though 1 call & I returned the first one and received the new one by return.(cost £30)

After my posting on “metro powerâ€Â

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