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Bronco78th

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  1. I always felt the default glass settings were way overkill on the Umarq I use - Depth/Chip 2.00 Feed 0.3 Speed 12000 I can get around 30 jobs from a drag diamond...however I specalise in pretty detailed images so I think I could get around 60/100 jobs out of each tip if it was a line of text only. until recently I only had a Gem-CX5 but i picked up an old Rotation S which I now use for most of my glass work. If they took the best parts of both machines in my opinion you would have virtually the perfect diamond engraving machine. The selecting and resizing is my biggest gripe with Vistool....running on Windows 10...I only got my Umarq 2 years ago so never ran it on anything else, but I am dissapointed with the performace at times concidering its hooked up to a desktop rig that can still run the latest videogames at medium detail but can't resize a drawing. From a software design perspective the change that would make all the difference in my opinion is to switch resizing and moving a selected element to a bounding box. The problem is Vistool is rendering every drawn line with those slection lines everytime. thats ridiculous. just put a bounding box round the selected element and be done with it. Also .PDF import would be amazing, when I got my machine I w as told the new version of Vistool (which I assume never saw the light of day) was going to have .PDF imports. I use EngraveLab on the Rotation S and its a different level in terms of optermisation compared to vis...so much faster...also has an amazing .PDF import system. One area Vistool does trump EngraveLab is on the Curved text tool...that is amazing in VisTool! John
  2. Hi All. Just curious how much do you charge to engrave a Trophy Plaque that has already been engraved over a number of years not by you. So you have to figure out the font, test and test again to get the font size and alignment etc so it matches with the previous engravings and all the risks that brings. Kind Regards, John
  3. Not sure what machine you are using. But I recently had some struggles with Black tankards and flaking coating as described in this post...I posted the settings I now use for coated items...the primary thing is make sure to use a Brand New Tip and slow it down. https://shoerepairer.info/topic/27193-settings-for-engraving-black-coated-tankards/ Good Luck John
  4. Hi All. Many Thanks for the help. I got the job done and got some setting down. which were. Brand New Diamond cutter...I think mine was blunt which didn't help matters.... Slow down the Feed to 4.0 m/min , 1.00mm depth Chip 0.5mm. (creating 2 passes) I also added oil though doubt this did anything other than give me a positive placebo effect no noticeable Flaking, good job done. Kind Regards. John
  5. Many Thanks for help. Ive started experimenting with a super fine cutter I have. I don't particularly want to blunt it because I use it quite often for Sterling Silver Cufflinks etc, but it appears to be the key here as the cut is so fine it doesn't flake the coating as much and im getting much better results. The next question is anyone know where i can obtain a new one of these cutters as id be happy to experiment more if there was no risk of destroying my only one. I think I got this one from Umarq themselves but they are closing shop now and im not sure ive seen this style of cutter openly sold anywhere. Kind Regards, John
  6. Hi All, Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions to help minimise the coating on black coated tankards flaking while engraving. I do artworks and funny enough most of the time the artworks come out great, but im having difficulty with basic text especially when it gets quite small. Just flakes the coating and ive tried various tankards from various suppliers with mixed results and various settings. Just wondering if there is anything more I could do to help it. Im using diamond drag and a Umarg CX5 machine. Kind Regards, John
  7. https://www.armstrongproducts.co.uk/ can do custom orders and plaque type stuff.
  8. Yeah really sad and not good for anyone, helped me out by supplying one of those american Cross Alun keys a couple of months back after I needed one for a part. big area and boots to fill for someone potentially. One thing thats bothering me is i think we are all going to funnel into using Laser engravers....which for me is currently not possible.....seems even basic parts for Rotaries are becomes so hard to come by as the market is now a wash with Lasers. Im struggaling to get hold of the test tape as I don't have a huge amount left as Umarq used to sell it now don't and mastergrave used to sell it who have gone. only too places I can see have it are Charlie Birch where im waiting in a pile for a trade account and Aldridge Security who im trying to get hold of to see if they have any in stock, before i go through the registration rigmarole.
  9. I was at Trophex as well, first time, great show! For me ive always considered it going Laser, Diamond, Sand Blast. in regards to quality on glass About 4 years ago a went to the workshop of a local engraver who does all 3 (Laser, Diamond and Sandblasting) and compared 3 samples. Laser doesn't really cut the glass it more fractures the surface which is why you can get a slightly more ragged edge on lines...this will come down to variarions of course, type of glass and quality of the laser. Ebay sellers selling glass for £5 use lasers because its quick and gives what you expect for £5. I don't doubt however modern laser technology has come on so much that it might be better now, when compared to Diamond......I think its tell tail that there was barely any diamond machines on show there...almost entirely Sandblasting and laser engraved....also that U-Marq, Generally knows as Diamond Engraving specialists are now moving into the saturated laser market. Diamond is what i have most experience in and as long as you have a specialist glass cutter your good. You can still get fracturing of the glass on lines but the overall quality and depth is better than laser. Its likely less economical than laser because your having to stock up on specialist tips which aren't cheap.....this is an issue im having right now because of what im trying to do. Sandblasting. In my opinion is a different world to both these in regards quality. I did a demo at the show of the masking process as thats where I lacked understanding and im intending to do my own detailed designs....which are killing my glass tips.... and as it turns out as crystal-engravers says the newer tech and processing makes it very easy and quite quick to create them. I do a range of stuff (coated metal items etc) and my diamond works well for those but I have my heart set on doing sandblasting for glass....only problem is im going it alone this year and working from my house with no garage, kinda puts sandblasting out the question as I can't find a compressor quite enough and powerful enough to do it :(. Good luck with it!
  10. Hi all. I'm down to my last bit of the classic antique white rub n buff that I use to give diamond cut glass that extra oomph. Unfortunately wasnt aware it had been discontinued and am looking for an alternative white infill product with similar qualities....hardwearing. easy to clean on the smooth areas of glass. Easy to apply. Quick drying. I'm using silver leaf rub and buff for now but it just doesn't look the same. Much prefer the white. Is there a (uk) alternative or maybe a type of paint that would do the same job? Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone. John
  11. Hi All, Possibly looking at purchasing a U-marq Gem CX5 Engraver and just wondering if there are any obvious pit falls I should be aware of. Ive had a demo on the machine and software and am quite impressed with what ive seen. I currently use a Suregrave Rotation S, but am wary of problems with ever increasing lack of spare parts and more likely the laptop that the machine is connected to is going to die soon leading to all kinds of software problems, so am looking for something with abit of future proofing. Im not intending to do massive items hence why im going for the CX5 rather than the Umarq Universal and ill still have access to an S. Just getting an overview of opinions and any inherent issues people have come across with it. Kind Regards, John
  12. Yep I have the cutters separated as im aware switching between glass and metal utterly kills them so I make sure I use the right cutter allocated to the right material! Ive got a Light touch cutter knob now.....stupid question what is the difference between the Light touch and standard spring knob? the pressure seems similar? light touch holds its pressure more consistantly or something? Kind Regards, John
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