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The pdf/book is very good Lee, however I do take issue with one part regarding the changing of watch batteries.

 

In your guide you state 'Or to reduce stock levels & doubt you can simply fit (moving down the example gauge) a 357 for a 303 / 386 for a 301 / 350 instead of a 344 &

so on as the sizes are the same'.
 
I'm sorry, but if you are going to fit batteries then do it properly. There is a reason why one watch has a high drain battery and another has a low drain. It's not a good idea to just choose 'whatever fits'.
 
Batteries are inexpensive and to skimp on the right selection of batteries seems overly mean.
 
Having said that, I've pointed out many times to customers that have had batteries fitted elsewhere (normally cobblers - sorry) that they have had the wrong battery fitted and we will put the correct battery in. They always seem very appreciative that we've done the job 'properly'.

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No one has ever been able to tell me the true difference between high drain and low drain in twenty years. Energizer batteries stopped differentiating about ten years ago. Several experts have told me any difference is inconsequential, and I have never had a problem in the sixteen years I've owned my business that could be traced back to improper use of high/low drain. Often when ordering stock suppliers may substitute on for the other. I nearly always just use " high" drain, have done in the past, will do in the future.

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High drain batteries risk burning the movement out. 

 

High drains are normally suitable for watches with extra functions that would take away a normal 'drain', lights, stopwatches etc.

 

As a sort of example - The amount of clocks I see that 'don't work' after the customer has fitted a new Duracell battery is astonishing, we fit a 'cheaper' battery and hey presto, as long as the duracell hasn't been in there long enough to do any damage, the clock starts working again.

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High drain batteries risk burning the movement out. 

 

High drains are normally suitable for watches with extra functions that would take away a normal 'drain', lights, stopwatches etc.

 

As a sort of example - The amount of clocks I see that 'don't work' after the customer has fitted a new Duracell battery is astonishing, we fit a 'cheaper' battery and hey presto, as long as the duracell hasn't been in there long enough to do any damage, the clock starts working again.

 

This doesn't fit with my (limited) understanding of how electricity works. Surely the movement will only draw the current it needs? So long as the voltage is correct it can't be "overfed" electricity?

 

Can someone else with a better understanding of this than me comment?

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High drain batteries risk burning the movement out. 

 

Hi Voltage risks burning out a movement, not high drain

 

Take theses 2 batteries.... SR920W (370) & SR920SW (371) here's what all those letters mean

 

S = Silver

R = Round

9 = 9.5mm Diameter

20 = 2.0mm thich

 

a W on its own means is complies with IEC 60086-3 an international standard for these types of batteries....... no letter between the numbers and this w means the battery has organic electrolyte in it. a "S" means it has sodium hydroxide electrolyte in it. both batteries will supply 1.55volts with an even current. its only the chemical make up that means if a watch is running an alarm, light or stop watch the battery is able to maintain a higher drain more constantly, but may not necessarily last longer under normal load.

 

A SR920SW will not damage a watch originally fitted with a SR920W or vice versa, But a SR920W in a watch with additional functions will drain much quicker (if these functions are used regularly) so you customer will be back unhappy!

 

If you remove any battery from a faulty clock & replace it with a cheaper one & the clock begins to work, then this would ONLY suggest to me that the terminals have a thin layer of potassium carbonate on them & putting the new battery in has rubbed this layer off enough for a good current to make is way back to the clock. A good clean of these terminals & any brand or type of cell will work. (IMO)

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If you remove any battery from a faulty clock & replace it with a cheaper one & the clock begins to work, then this would ONLY suggest to me that the terminals have a thin layer of potassium carbonate on them & putting the new battery in has rubbed this layer off enough for a good current to make is way back to the clock. A good clean of these terminals & any brand or type of cell will work. (IMO)

 

Duracells are definitely bad news for clocks. 

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I don't agree with that at all! It's out of date batteries or batteries left in long after they've gone flat that are the problem. Not battery chemistry or type.

Just poor management of the clock IMO

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