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Bronco78th

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About Bronco78th

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  1. Care to elaborate Marino? What cutters are they. Cheers John
  2. Yep I have the cutters separated as im aware switching between glass and metal utterly kills them so I make sure I use the right cutter allocated to the right material! Ive got a Light touch cutter knob now.....stupid question what is the difference between the Light touch and standard spring knob? the pressure seems similar? light touch holds its pressure more consistantly or something? Kind Regards, John
  3. Will get a Light touch knob and see what happens! Many Thanks, John
  4. Many Thanks for the help guys. Passed the advise on. Kind Regards, John
  5. Hi again everyone. Someone has asked me about doing an engraving on a brass plaque but the instructions I slightly different to the basic stuff I normally do. Basically a charity run by the local museum have received special dispensation to send a dive team to the wreck of a WW1 hospital ship which was torpedoed by a Uboat and sunk. There were several people from the town that went down with the ship and this is something the town is planning to do to mark the WW1 Centenary. They want to put a brass plaque on the deck of the ship. The plaque will be about A5 size and round/oval to avoid sharp edges. Not be to heavy as it needs to be carried by one of the divers, but also needs the relevant protections again the harsh elements of the sea. The plaque will have the charity Logo and about 15 words of text. What equipment would be needed to carry out this job and what other considerations are there? Ive already turned it down because I don't feel comfortable or knowledgeable enough to do the job it deserves but I said id seek advice for them.....would simply going to a memorial type engravers be the answer for them? Though they are trying to keep it local (Oxfordshire) There might be a job if any of you want to take it on, it would be for less than the going rate of course but if your feeling charitable! Kind Regards, John
  6. Thanks for the swift replies. Im not using a light touch cutter knob...just standard spring. I might try the composite next time......my feed rate is currently that. Happy Dude, where do you pick up your 8 facet diamonds from if you don't mind me asking...not sure ive seen 8 facets? Kind Regards, John
  7. Hi Guys and Gals. Need some advise. I do some glass engraving, about 5 pieces a week along with much more standard drag engraving on metal. The glass is moulded 'crystal' glass as well as Lead Crystal (harder and Softer respectively). Recently ive noticed a slight deterioration in the cut quality and assumed the cutter (11/64 .003 faceted Diamond Tip) was on its way out, while I made adjustments the tip failed completely.....wouldn't cut into the glass at all. Having replaced the tip with a brand new tip from J&M Diamond in the States. This tip has lasted for literally afew glass jobs and its dead.... won't penetrate the glass. I used Pledge Furniture polish previously as a coolant, but its messy and ive not been convinced for awhile how good it is.....its what the previous engraver used....But have recently tried upgrading to Mastergraves Glass Engraving oil and have only used that with the new Tip. The previous engraver has a stash of dead tips, all faceted 11/64 .003 Glass (and one dead drag tip ) which suggests I am/ we were doing something fundamentally wrong and probably to do with heat/lack of cooling. My general engraving setup for glass is as follows - Machine - Suregrave Rotation S Speed - 17500 RPM Tips - 11/64 .003 faceted Diamond Coolant - Pledge Furniture polish/ Master Grave Glass Engraving Oil Any Ideas on how I can reduce my attrition on Cutting tips when engraving glass and where I might be going wrong in my set-up please. Kind Regards, John
  8. Hey guys, Just a question about Brass plaques. Basically im involved with a local memorial charity and we have just added a information board to memorial Garden. The board is dedicated to someone and it requires a small Brass dedication Plaque. Similar to what you find on benches. As im on the committee they know I'm an engraver and wondered if I could engrave this plaque. I've only done brass plaques for decanter tray sets and the like and nothing for the outdoors. We spray and finish our Brass plaques with vanish etc anyway to try and stop tarnish...but as said they never go outdoors,...is there anything I need to do thats particularly different? Kind Regards, John
  9. Cheers for the Help Guys. Work wise im stuck with the Rotation S, no idea why we ended up with the second one, but the purse strings are tight and Im working with someone who has no idea, yet gets to make the final choices...which is how we ended up with 2 Rot S's. Anyway they are doing the job for now and ill bear those contacts in mind. I might be in the market for a machine myself in the not to distant future, getting a tad tired of the run of the mill stuff, want to get back to being creative again.... Cheers John
  10. Morning Folks, Just wondering if there are any Rotation S Specialists still around after Suregrave went belly up? We have 2 Rotation S Machines, One we got recently second hand - which I use for flat stuff, largely due to a lack of space but its only used really when we get busy.....and of course a back-up if the first machine fails. The Primary machine which is used daily, we got second hand about 3 years ago and its only had one check since then. Nothing specific wrong that I haven't been able to fix myself, but an increasing amount of squeaking and such is making me slightly anxious. Especially given the time of year we are about to go into and a 5 fold increase in work load, I don't fancy either machine breaking down on me. Just a piece of mind thing, as im not the most mechanically minded so don't really want to risk stripping parts not knowing what the hell im doing. Thanks in advance for any help/contacts! Regards, John
  11. Hi All, We use a Rotation S for crystal glasses etc and im having a problem with shadowing on the infill that im struggling to resolve. I did 3 glasses this morning with the same text and the 1st one was spot on, the second and third one had an increasing shadow (where the infill didn't match the outline). Most of the text matches up fine but the problems normally occur around the top left/right exstremities of the text that causes problems. So you get the odd word where the infill is 1/2 mm out. This seems to occur pretty randomly and if its purely down to slippage ill need to do even more to make sure things are locked , but is there anything mechanical/software wise that could be causing it? Though my boss doesn't notice it, it looks naff and amateurish in my opinion......and id feel better if I had reassurance it is most likely to be down to slippage than anything mechanical or software related. Using Surlab 7.1 Cheers John
  12. Cheers for that. Yep definately Brass...we also do Gold Aluminium plaques....Its the weight that gives them away! The Brass are generally saved for the more desirable items...in this case Decanter Sets. Regards, John
  13. Cheers for the advise fellas. Michael - Just using the drag had the most desirable result on my now exstremeily battered test peice - however I was under the impression that doing Brass with a diamond drag would blunt the tip exstremeily fast....hence why I didn't try it. Is My assumption wrong? Regards, John
  14. Hi All Im hoping one of you could help me. Basically ive recently taken over the responsibility of engraving for our company since our previous engraver has left. Im finding it jolly good fun as it co-insides with my artistic side. However certain things I am having to work out as I go as both myself and the previous engraver are both self taught apart from abit of tuition from an engineer when we first got our machine and finally ive got abit stuck. I’m having a problem engraving a brass plaque 0.5mm thick as the normal hard metal cutter won’t cut deep enough. So I want to use a Tungsten Carbide tip (semi circular nib). The problem im having is a simply don’t know how to properly set a consistent depth since the drill bit has no spring just a nosecone. I figured the depth must be set in Surelab Pro (v7.1) somewhere but I just don’t know what setting(s) im looking for or what to change. Helpfully our previous engraver didn’t cover this with me in the handover and has simply put on the notes to 'Set the machine as per manual'….which manual is that?!? Any tutorials or advise on how to cut a slightly deeper depth into Brass using Surlab Pro and a Rotation S Machine. Thanks in advance. Regards, John
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